Tiller opinions ?

[Badly Bent]

 2nd mulberry for the trade. The first mulberry trade bow just needs to be lettered and its ready. I'm very pleased with it but the
draw weight is at the low end of my recipients request at the high end of his draw. Since there is plenty of time left I started another
to see if I could get closer to his specs.
This one is drawn to 21" in the pic and is holding around 1 3/4" reflex when unstrung, all right at the fades. I'm thinking I need to
remove some at fades to get the handle moving (bendy handle design) and maybe mostly at top limg first 5" out of handle. Also thinking maybe a little flat at mid bottom limb. Not sure about any of this, keep looking at drawn pic and seeing different things.
Any ideas are appreciated.
Greg

[SLIMBOB]

When they're that close it's splittin' hairs.  Looks good to me.  Love the reflex it's holding, and the shapes, braced, unstrung and drawn.

[Badly Bent]

I want to get it to 27"/28" draw, very little if any weight to spare at this point. Don't want to pull further yet until I'm sure its bending evenly to avoid hinges.

[Pat B]

You could bring the bend back into the handle now. The limb on the left at brace looks like about 6" is stiff out from the handle and about 8" on the right limb. On bendy handle bows i like to feel the handle give a little when I reach full draw. Leave trhe mid limbs alone. If you still have a bit more weight to work with get the outter limb bending sone too.

[half eye]

Hey B2,
       If I was tillerin that bow I would catch the top limb up to the bottom first ( top is slightly stronger) and since them bends look pretty damned "round" then get the outside 1/3 of @ limb commin back. The outter 1/3 will get ya the draw length and the middle  will give ya the power.
       Take this for what it's worth also....as you are making the upper limb bend a little more pay close attention to the lower limb. The reason is that, as the one limb bends more the other will also be straightening out some because the forces are gettin more even. So while one is dending the other is straightening at the same time. Just didn't want it to get away from ya, especially since your so close.
       Hope that helps ya some.
rich

[mikekeswick]

Have you got a picture of the back?
Be very careful with the handle as it is already bending. Bear in mind that any reflexed areas when unstrung will and SHOULD look a little stiff when drawn.

[Eric Krewson]

What Pat said........

[Badly Bent]

Thanks for the replies guys, appreciate it. Scraped both inner limbs a little and scraped a small amount at outer top limb. I also took a little off mid bottom limb, my idea there, and that may have been a mistake on my part . Heres where I'm at now;
  -1st pic is back, 1 1/4" @ handle, 1 3/8 @ fades to mids, gradual taper to 1/2" tips
  -2nd pic is drawn to 24" on tree
  -3rd pic is drawn to 25"
What do you think?  Should I adjust tiller before pulling to full 27"/28"?

[H Rhodes]

That looks excellent to me Greg.  I would call it done and see how she shoots. 

[Badly Bent]

Thanks Howard
Took it out in the yard a few minutes ago and put a couple dozen arrows thru her at my 25" draw. Not sure, feels pretty shocky on the bow hand, kinda like limb timing is off balance maybe. I'll sleep on it tonight and take a look at her again tomorrow I guess.

Rich, if you take a look again do you think I caught the top limb up to the bottom yet? Top limb from mid to tips is getting mighty thin so not sure anymore wood can be removed there.  Thanks for the input Pat, Rich, Mike & Eric.

[mikekeswick]

With that width profile you should have a mild elliptical tiller.
So from what I see it's doing a little too much work maybe 6 -8 inches above and below the handle with the mid to outer limbs being a little too stiff. Get the out limbs bending a bit more and I bet that the handshock will dissappear. Go slow and steady I'd probably use 60 grit paper from now on out.
Handshock is almost always linked to a problem in the tiller.
Getting the tiller to correspond to the width profile is the key to making bows with zero shock. It's like the bow is telling you if it's bending properly 
As wood gets thinner it can and should be bending further...simple as that!
Good luck.