Rules for center-shot arrow shelf in selfbow?

[cool_98_555]

Hello everyone.  I am in the process of making an osage selfbow with a stiff handle and I want to cut a center-shot arrow shelf into the bow.  The bow will be around 85-90lbs at 30" and my limb width at the fades is 1 3/8".  I have not carved out the width of my handle area yet.  As a general rule, how thick does the riser need to be and how much wood do you need on the other side of the arrow shelf in order for it to be safe to cut a center-shot shelf into the bow?  Any insight on this would be highly appreciated.  Thank you.

[bubby]

in order for it to be true center shott you have to go past center, I don't know why guys want centershot on selfbows when it is really not needed, must be a hold over from glass bows, with the proper spined arrows you will get the same results, I seldom put a shelf on my bows, especially a cut in shelf, Bub

[Newindian]

I wouldn't trust a center shot shelf on a bow with that high of a draw weight

[BOWMAN53]

Bubby: Center shots just look cool thats why lol.  its a new school thing, you old guys dont get it lol 

[Newindian]

Bubby: Center shots just look cool thats why lol.  its a new school thing, you old guys dont get it lol 

 

Fifteen and can't stand arrow rest/shelves or stiff handles

[bubby]

Bubby: Center shots just look cool thats why lol.  its a new school thing, you old guys dont get it lol 




OLD , me?

[mikekeswick]

Bubby: Center shots just look cool thats why lol.  its a new school thing, you old guys dont get it lol 

They look horrible on a selfbow to me...

as has been said you DO NOT need any sort of shelf and doing so will seriously weaken your bow. To be able to cut a big shelf out then the handle has to be deep. Deep handles are way more prone to torquing when shot.
All these 'inventions' are ways of making archery easier and easier and easier. A shelf is just the same mentality as sights, stabalisers etc etc. Whats wrong with it requiring skill and dedication  after all these things are what make challenges rewarding.
Sorry for the rant 

[simson]

Bubby: Center shots just look cool thats why lol.  its a new school thing, you old guys dont get it lol 

They look horrible on a selfbow to me...

as has been said you DO NOT need any sort of shelf and doing so will seriously weaken your bow. To be able to cut a big shelf out then the handle has to be deep. Deep handles are way more prone to torquing when shot.
All these 'inventions' are ways of making archery easier and easier and easier. A shelf is just the same mentality as sights, stabalisers etc etc. Whats wrong with it requiring skill and dedication  after all these things are what make challenges rewarding.
Sorry for the rant 

+1

[Marc St Louis]

as has been said you DO NOT need any sort of shelf and doing so will seriously weaken your bow. To be able to cut a big shelf out then the handle has to be deep. Deep handles are way more prone to torquing when shot.
All these 'inventions' are ways of making archery easier and easier and easier. A shelf is just the same mentality as sights, stabalisers etc etc. Whats wrong with it requiring skill and dedication  after all these things are what make challenges rewarding.
Sorry for the rant 

That's a bit of an assumption there.  I've made 100's of bows that are close to centre shot and never had one fail including 80#+ recurves.

[twisted hickory]

Hello everyone.  I am in the process of making an osage selfbow with a stiff handle and I want to cut a center-shot arrow shelf into the bow.  The bow will be around 85-90lbs at 30" and my limb width at the fades is 1 3/8".  I have not carved out the width of my handle area yet.  As a general rule, how thick does the riser need to be and how much wood do you need on the other side of the arrow shelf in order for it to be safe to cut a center-shot shelf into the bow?  Any insight on this would be highly appreciated.  Thank you.

Cool,
I am currently shooting one I made from hickory that is 52 lbs and 1/8 from center. I am almost finished with a 64 lb bow that is standard handle/shooting pass that is one inch wide and arrow pass will be 1/2 from center. The one that is 1/2 from center shoots just as good as the one that is close to center shoot. If ya set up a non center shot bow so at say 6.5 inch of brace and make the arrow contact spot near the front (back of bow) it will shoot fine. There is a little more paradox but the arrow shoot right where I am looking. Plus I think I am running into some lateral stability with my center shotish bow. I have messed around with the brace to get the arrows to not slap the handle lots and it still has a little slap which I think is a lateral stability thing. The handle at the pass is like 11/16 wide by 1.75 thick for 52 lb bow. I would not go less in depth.
Just MHO,
Greg

[vinemaplebows]

I like cut in rests....main reason consistantcy in where the arrow is, and more importantly I can keep a arrow knocked while I am stocking game (quietly) Each to their own.

VMB

[blackhawk]

This is one of those personal preference issues....nothing wrong with a cut in shelf as long as its done right....do what you wanna do and what makes YOU happy,and not because someone else says no just because they don't like them on THEIR own bows...your making a bow for you and not someone else I'm presuming

I'd say you will need to keep the depth of at least 1 7/8" with those specs where its cut..but the handle underneath can be a lil less...and add another 1"+ to your handle/fade section

[autologus]

The Native Americans did not need one and neither do I. 

Grady

[k-hat]

I like'm for the same reasons mentioned, but i'm not stuck on them, i've made bows with and without.  I do make it a practice of cutting in a shelf if i'm making it for someone else who is used to it or coming from wheelie bows.  Makes them feel better and eases the transition imo.  Never had any problem with it being weaker.  I wouldn't try to go past center though, not worth it, the grip gets real ugly to me.  A guy put some r/o board bows up on c****slist here recently with built up handles and cut past center... they are butt ugly imo and i can't believe anyone would pay what he's askin.  Hope i didn't just make an enemy

[cool_98_555]

Hello again everyone and thank you for all the replies.  My arrow shelf doesn't need to be center-shot, but I just think it's nice to have one.  People keep saying that if you're going to cut an arrow shelf, make sure you "have enough wood in depth and behind the shelf" or the bow will break in the handle, but very few actually give dimensions of what is acceptable for the amount of wood that has to be there for it to be safe.  I have made bows in excess of 70lbs without a shelf for years, but the reason I want a shelf in a high draw weight bow is because I want to challenge myself and see if I can do it.  It would be nice to have a permanent place for the arrow to rest as well.  Problem is that I do have a really good stave that I am working with, and it is very straight with no knots, so perhaps i'll go with no shelf for the draw weight i'm looking for.  Perhaps I'll cut in arrow shelfs for lower draw weight bows, but i'm not sure yet.  There was a time when I made a 90# hickory backed white oak that I cut a shelf into.  Problem was that when I cut the shelf to center, I got back to 29" and it failed near the shelf.  That bow was 72" as well, so I guess you learn from your mistakes.  If I cut a shelf into this bow, it will probably not be quite center-shot or not have a shelf at all.  Also, since I really want to aim for 85# and I love the full compass tiller, perhaps it would be better to just do another "warbow-like" bow like I have done before where it bends in the handle.  Just not sure any more, haha!