Thank you, kind Sirs

Nice work
Where is it taking most of the set?
Fairly evenly along the working part of the limbs, IIRC - I'll check when I get home.
...You mentioned Danish oil - what exactly is that?
Do you know, I have no real idea?

Hang on....
[exercises Google-fu]
Tung oil, with synthetic resins dissolved in it, together with solvents to improve the application and driers to speed up the drying/curing process.
You wipe it onto the surface and rub it in/allow it to soak in then it sets into the surface, forming a tough, impervious coating in the outer layer of the wood.
I use it on the handles of almost all of the knives I make.
(technically, a varnish is resins dissolved in a carrier solvent, allowing application to a surface, where the solvent will evaporate, allowing the resins to polymerise forming a solid coating)
(if we are going to get pedantic, the solvent does not actually have to evaporate, as there are 100% solids varnishes, where the carrier solvent also polymerises, typically in UV-cured finishes - Danish Oil could therefore best be described as a high-solids room-temperature-curing varnish)
(this may be more information than required...

)
(OK, I have to admit working in the surface coatings industry many summers ago, but I'm cured now

)