Hazelnut bow build-a-long (fixed pictures)

[Gordon]

RT,

To reduce weight I will take off wood with long even strokes with a scraper - the same number of stokes on each limb. I will carefully monitor the tiller as I go and make corrections if necessary. The idea is to shave off a little wood along almost the entire length of each limb (be careful near the tips), exercise the bow, and then repeat until you reach your target draw length/weight. I'll try to post pictures later this week to help illustrate.

Gordon

[Gordon]

Thank you Pat. I'm pleased you found something useful in this build-a-long!

[handfletch]

Gordon, I just viewed the photos and read your notes.  You have a veritable bowyer's manual in the making.  The progression of photos is logical and that, along with your commentary, results in an easy-to-follow guide.  I wish I'd had this helpful and clearly-explained set of photos when I first started out.  I wasn't aware of these postings until today, when Dave H. sent out an e-mail. 

[Gordon]

What a nice compliment HF, thank you!

[Gordon]

The bow was starting to show a little more set than I like so I tempered the belly again and then exercised the bow on the tree. Now the bow shows no string follow after stringing and a workout. We’ll see how long that lasts once I start removing wood again.



If you’re going to build wooden bows you have to learn how to fix problems. And here is a problem that you are likely to encounter sooner or later if you build enough bows. A compression fracture has formed in the handle area where a pin knot extends through the belly.

[Gordon]

I’m going to employ a technique that I learned from master bowyer John Strunk to fix the problem. I will fashion a patch from thick rawhide and affix it to the area of the fracture. This will transfer some of the compressive force from the belly to the rawhide thus relieving stress on the fractured area. 

First I cut a rawhide patch about 4” x 1 1/8”. I then bevel the edges on a belt sander.



I soften the rawhide up by soaking in warm (not hot!) water for about 20 minutes.



And then blot the rawhide patch dry with a towel. I coat the now pliable patch with super-glue gel and affix it over the problem area. In this case the patch is longer than I need because it will also serve to build up the handle.



I let the patch dry overnight and then taper the edges into the belly using a small file.

[Gordon]

Now that the fracture has been addressed, I can continue the tillering process. The tiller is pretty good but I need to reduce weight. I do this by taking the same number of long and even strokes from each limb, about 5 – 6 strokes. After removing wood I exercise the bow by pulling it to its target weight about 20 times. This ensures that the wood removal is registered otherwise you run the risk of a sudden and unexpected loss of draw weight.



After each exercise session I measure the distance between the belly and string at about 6” out from the handle on each limb. I like the lower limb to be a little stiffer than the upper limb so I strive for about ¼” positive tiller on the top. That means the distance between the belly and string on the top limb is about ¼” greater than on the bottom limb.

[BryanB]

Gordon-
Wonderful build along, one of the best I have seen.
Your attention to detail building bows is certainly showing in this tutorial.
I'm glad to see your stave is turning in to such a nice bow.

Pat- work has been crazy, you stave will be on its way soon.  Now you have a great guide when crafting your own.

Bryan

[koan]

Gordon, this is GREAT!....Brian

[George Tsoukalas]

Good job, Gordon. I hate compression fractures.  You are right. Being a self wood bowyer means you need to learn to fix problems. Jawge

[Pat B]

Another good (new to me) fixer-upper, Gordon. I have a few bows in the corner of shame that will be getting rawhide patches. Thanks again for the helpful tips.
  Bryan, at your convenience!!!       Pat

[Ghost Dog]

This is a great build along, Gordon, it makes me feel like I am looking over your shoulder day after day.

[cowboy]

I'm with the other guys - I look forward to checking this post (daily) it's like one of those books you can't put down .

[RT]

Hi Gordon,

Great build a long, see the append threat that i have posted. My belly is raw boo and it has crystalised, can I apply the raw hide method as well? currently i patched up that area with a slice of boo backing. (4" long and as wide as the limb, 4mm thick

I am not too sure where I can get my hands on raw hide, any suggestions? can a hide of a wild hog do? how thich does it have to be?

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,3910.0.html

[brian melton]

Gordon,

                    You asked me at enumclaw whether heat treating the belly was a help on hazlenut....So whats your opinion???