56" sinew backed osage static recurve...the beginnings!

[Pappy]

Looks like a good start,very nice looking stave.
   Pappy

[Pat B]

Today I reduced the limb thickness to about 5/8". One limb had a slight crook near the tip so I straightened that out with dry heat...






...after that cooled a bit it was time to begin the recurving. With some adjustments to the flrm I clamped the tip to the form and coated it with oil then began heating. As I was heating and bending a few splinters began to lift so I clamped a small block of wood to hold down the splinters as I went along...




I'll let her cool over night to insure this curve are set in place and bend the other one tomorrow.


I'll add some super glue to the splinters that lifted and sand the area smooth. If necessary I'll add a underlay to support the recurve.

[osage outlaw]

Thats a lot of recurve with dry heat 

[H Rhodes]

You got my attention!  This one could be a real beast.

[Pat B]

Clint, this is the way I've always done it.

[blackhawk]

Going for a big ole ryano recurve there pat? ....that big curve reminded me of some of his he used to make

[Pat B]

You nailed it Chris.  His were selfbows, weren't they. I'm too chicken for that. This one is gonna have sinew.
  Haven't seen anything of Ryano lately. Wonder if he's coming to the Classic.

[Pat B]

Someone asked me why I bent the tips before I shaped them. This is only the initial recurve bending. There will be more to come. Once both recurves are bent and cooled I'll check the alignment visually by looking down each limb. Some more heating and tweeking might(read most probably) be in order. From here it will be after the bow is tillered enough to brace before I will really know how the tips line up and the string tracks. Sometimes this can be the most frustrating part of this process, getting everything lined up.  I've left the tips wide too so some tip adjustment can be made by removing more wood from one side or the other when fashioning the final tip shape once everything lines up. Stay tuned...

[HickoryBill]

Pat:  Ryan wont be making it to the classic this year..he has a little one on the way..Outbackbob will still be coming tho..

[ssgtchad]

Keep it coming sir

[seminolewind]

I like that C clamp looking thing where do you get them and what are they called ! I sure could have used that the other day when I was putting curves on my new bow. I fought like heck with conventional C clamps on my jig ! Looking good so far I will be following this one !

[Pat B]

I bought that one from ACE Hardware.
 This first pic is looking down the bow. You can see that the recurve is off to one side. That will be straightened at a later date.


Here is the result of yesterday's recurving...


Then I bent the other tip. I went a little slower with this one and didn't scorch it as badly and it splintered less. It will probably be the end of the week before I get back at it.

[ScottN]

that bow is looking good! I am sure it will come out nice.

Out of curiosity, do you have a jig that hold's your heat gun X amount of inches away from the wood? Or do you free hand the gun and bend the bow when it is pliable enough?

I am wondering because every bow i've made so far have been straight bow's, but I would really like to attempt a recurve. The only thing keeping me from it is I read in the bowyer bible that they recommend steaming the limbs- and I dont have the room right now to make a steam setup!

[Pat B]

Scott, I don't use a jig to hold the heat gun. I do it free hand in a small area at a time. I hold it about 2" above the wood and move it back and forth until I can feel the resistance leave the bow. Then I know it is hot enough. I do use cooking oil on the bow to help prevent scorching. Unfortunately I had to get this first tip so hot it really scorched. That scorched wood will be removed later when I shape the tips.
  For your first try just reflexing the last 6" to 8" of each tip. This will give you the feel for what is going on without being too drastic.
  A lot depends on the wood used. I've had good luck with osage and elm but not hickory. I think hickory need steam or boiling. 

[simson]

Looks good  -  watching with interest!