Maple Board Bow

[Thesquirrelslinger]

I am currently working on a maple board bow, want some advice.
Here is a pic- It is just started tilllering. I am shooting for a light bow- 35-40 pounds draw, not the current 60-70(estimate, I can barely pull it 12 inches. feels like a 65 pounder). It is 1 5/8 wide, thick- it varies. It is made from an edge ring board bow, Maple. Not sure what species, but it is pretty soft(compared to my usual locust) and quite strong. It is also rather flexible. I think it is bending too much in the handle, want to know what you guys think. It seemed good when I floor-tillered it. I try to make my bows mildly whip-ended, for reduced handshock and good cast, with low set. I tested the full draw once,- drew it the equivalent of 20 inches and slowly released. No set whatsoever.
None. I think this is gonna be one dang good bow.
I like maple. This board is edge-ringed, 65 inches long, with a quarter-agian string( I like those more than half-agian, plus shorter(and cheaper:))
HM... Chrome is being stupid, I will have to wait to upload pics.
-Squirrel

[Thesquirrelslinger]

Here are the pics. Good old Yabb code never fails..

Oh yea, I forgot to mention- click the image to see it better.

[Peacebow_Coos]

Nice staff SquirrelSlinger    I like maple, it's never failed me knock on wood...I know it likes it wide, looks like you've got that handle bending.  I'm guessing you floor tiller by pushing on the handle with the tip on the floor right?  That might mean that that portion is bending, but if the handle is the same thickness and cut in width wise it'll just bend more there, or some other reason I can't think of   Edge grain eh?  Good deal, I been lookin for one of those  

[Josh B]

I would agree, most if not all of your bend is in the center 15" or so.  What is your front profile? Narrowed handle? Parallel sides?  That makes a difference.  I wouldn't touch the middle section anymore until you get the rest of it working.  Also, when you see a spot bending more than the rest, stop pulling until you correct it.  You will end up with a better bow if you don't overwork the sections that are doing all the bending.  Josh

[Thesquirrelslinger]

I would agree, most if not all of your bend is in the center 15" or so.  What is your front profile? Narrowed handle? Parallel sides?  That makes a difference.  I wouldn't touch the middle section anymore until you get the rest of it working.  Also, when you see a spot bending more than the rest, stop pulling until you correct it.  You will end up with a better bow if you don't overwork the sections that are doing all the bending.  Josh

I am going to make it parallel, and I am thinking about thinning the limbs(width, not thickness, sort of like a pyaramid bow). It is pretty powerful now. I just put it on the tillering stick for about 2 mins, then took pic. I had thinned the limbs slightly(thickness) with a hand plane(its pretty hard to do without creating a D-shaped cross-section) and wanted to see if it bent better. I think taper to 3/4 inch at tips, thin slightly too. Sound good to you guys? I know the handle is bending too much now.
Thanks!
-Squirrel

[Josh B]

Just a suggestion, with the parrallel profile, I would keep the center 30" of the bow the full 1 5/8" width and then taper to your tips.  In other words, keep it 1 5/8" wide for 15" from center down both limbs.  Josh

[Thesquirrelslinger]

Just a suggestion, with the parrallel profile, I would keep the center 30" of the bow the full 1 5/8" width and then taper to your tips.  In other words, keep it 1 5/8" wide for 15" from center down both limbs.  Josh

Thanks!
I am currently leaving the center 20 inches....
is that too much? I already started planing down.

[Josh B]

Nope, that'll do just fine.  I very seldom measure stuff, so there's always a variance.  I've also ruined alot of good wood that way.  I would highly discourage the practice.  Josh