I have a simple way. First find the high spot on the stave and follow it with a light pencil mark, it should follow the grain on its own almost, and should be near center most of the time. Remember to follow the high spot from end to end, not just on the ends. Mark center and lay out your grip and fade according to the grain there. Mark your parallel limb length. I have circle stencil I use now. I start at whatever diamter I want to rough it to. Say 1 5/8". I center that 1 5/8" circle over my center line at the fades. Then stencil those same size circles with 1/2" gaps between them until I hit my parallel limb mark. From there I follow the same center line every 1/2" again, only this time I drop a diameter each move. So in this case I would go 1 1/2, then 1 3/8, then 1 1/4 and so on until I reach the tips, I end up 5/8" usually. Then I go back and free hand connect the high spot on each circle, this gives you the same exact pattern the grain follows as a front profile, that is if you got your high spot right to start with. Really study that "center" line or high spot line before you attack with the stencil. The bows profile being perfectly matched depends on it.