Author Topic: lets try again  (Read 5186 times)

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Offline Squirrelslayer

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Re: lets try again
« Reply #15 on: March 08, 2013, 11:28:20 am »
There is already a ring on the outside. There is no need to seal the back of Maple. You'll just create a mess to deal with later.

so if it is all one growth ring it wont crack? should i put some around the knots just to be safe? SS
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Offline Squirrelslayer

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Re: lets try again
« Reply #16 on: March 08, 2013, 11:30:54 am »
You don't need to chase a ring because you are going to use that first layer of wood right under the cambium as your back. "Chasing a ring" implies that you are cutting down through actual rings of wood to get down to a preferred ring. You wont do that on this wood.

You can water down the glue slightly to make it easier to apply. That shouldn't hurt anything.

ah yes i see what you mean. i might not need to water it down if i don't need to seal the back. SS
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Offline Weylin

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Re: lets try again
« Reply #17 on: March 08, 2013, 11:33:50 am »
There is already a ring on the outside. There is no need to seal the back of Maple. You'll just create a mess to deal with later.

so if it is all one growth ring it wont crack? should i put some around the knots just to be safe? SS

That's not it, exactly. Some wood types are more prone to checking as they dry and some are not. Maple happens to be pretty stable when it drys. Others, like osage and yew, need a little more consideration.

Offline Squirrelslayer

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Re: lets try again
« Reply #18 on: March 08, 2013, 11:38:38 am »
There is already a ring on the outside. There is no need to seal the back of Maple. You'll just create a mess to deal with later.

so if it is all one growth ring it wont crack? should i put some around the knots just to be safe? SS

That's not it, exactly. Some wood types are more prone to checking as they dry and some are not. Maple happens to be pretty stable when it drys. Others, like osage and yew, need a little more consideration.

ok so it looks like i have a good wood that won't crack. im still going to seal the ends, just to be safe. SS
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Offline DarkSoul

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Re: lets try again
« Reply #19 on: March 08, 2013, 11:44:01 am »
You must ALWAYS seal the end of any green wood you have. Sealing the back is more subject of discussion.

And NO, we cannot guarantee that the wood won't check. All wood can check. In less experienced hands there's a greater chance of checking.
(Cracking is something else then checking. Crack, euh, check your vocabulary.)
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Offline crooketarrow

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Re: lets try again
« Reply #20 on: March 08, 2013, 11:49:37 am »
   Maple dos'nt have chasable rings it's best to use the back right under the bark.

  First off seal the ends. Put it up high close to the cealing it's hotter more heat up there. You can up it in a but it in a hot box but dry it slowly. Drying really fast will make it brittle and will cause drying checks.
  It's better to season any wood with time.
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Offline Squirrelslayer

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Re: lets try again
« Reply #21 on: March 08, 2013, 11:54:24 am »
   Maple dos'nt have chasable rings it's best to use the back right under the bark.

  First off seal the ends. Put it up high close to the cealing it's hotter more heat up there. You can up it in a but it in a hot box but dry it slowly. Drying really fast will make it brittle and will cause drying checks.
  It's better to season any wood with time.

yes thats the basic plan. remove bark. seal ends (maybe back). and leave it in a warm dry place to dry for a few months. however i am opeen to sugestions. SS
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Offline Squirrelslayer

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Re: lets try again
« Reply #22 on: March 08, 2013, 02:54:50 pm »
ttt, just added some pics. SS
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Offline Matt_H

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Re: lets try again
« Reply #23 on: March 08, 2013, 03:29:39 pm »
Keep the bow wide (2").
leave it full thickness at the grip to allow plenty of surface area for the glue line in the splice.
I did a couple of Maple bows last Autumn, first one chrysalled a bit, so it's worth checking my blog to see where I screwed up.
searching for Maple in the blog brings up the posts.
Del

What Del neglects to say is the other half of the maple log make a bloody lovely 50# @ 28". 60" ntn bow..I know, I shoot it most days. :)
Very little string follow when unstrung, even after 2 or 3 hours, which straightens out after a while.

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Offline DarkSoul

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Re: lets try again
« Reply #24 on: March 08, 2013, 03:40:28 pm »
Those knots might cause you some grief. They're pretty big and smack in the middle of the billets. I always try to saw/split right through such knots, so they'll fall off when laying out a bow. However, if there are many knots, you can avoid only a few and not all of them. In those cases, it's best to have a knot smack in the middle of the bow's width rather then a little bit off centre.
"Sonuit contento nervus ab arcu."
Ovid, Metamorphoses VI-286

Offline Squirrelslayer

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Re: lets try again
« Reply #25 on: March 08, 2013, 03:42:54 pm »
yes i tried to split it where the possitioning of knots would be best. it was the best i could do really. SS
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Offline bow101

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Re: lets try again
« Reply #26 on: March 08, 2013, 04:53:08 pm »
        That's not big leaf maple is it......     ???
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Offline Squirrelslayer

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Re: lets try again
« Reply #27 on: March 08, 2013, 05:22:00 pm »
        That's not big leaf maple is it......     ???

No im not sure it is but it is maple. I checked in a book of trees and the bark and leaves were the same. SS
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