asymetrical fades, equal limb length??

[hedgeapple]

I was asked to build a bow for a friend of a friend's girl friend.  I decided on a stift handled bow, cut in arrow shelf, center shot at around 40# @ 24".  I thought I would experiment a little.  I laid the bow out with the arrow pass 1 inch above center with a 3 1/2 handle.  But, I wanted both working limbs to be the same length.  So, I extended the fade on the upper limb to create an additional length for the stift handle.

What I ended up with was:
3" fade on top limb to arrow rest and 1"from arrow pass to center on the riser, total 4"
Then 2 1/2 handle below center and 1 1/2" fade on the bottom limb, total 4"
Both working limbs were 27" to tips.
It was a hickory self bow 42# @ 24", 50# @ my 26 1/2 draw.

It is sweet shooting bow.  Probably the hardest shooting bow I've made.  I had to turn around backward, putting my calves against the target to pull the arrows out.

I'm sure several of you have done this design before and there's probably reference to it in TTB (which I'll be ordering all 4 volumes tomorrow).  But, I want to hear your thoughts on this design.

Sorry, I have not pics, yet.  Hopefully, I can get my hands on this bow again for a photo shoot.

[mikekeswick]

No reason why not to do it like this.
Just remember that the limbs don't need to be the same length for any reason.

[crooketarrow]

  I aways biuld all my bows equal limbs ,equal fades,equal poundage. That tiller aways looks best I think.  To me looks means as much as preformance. I like to build bows with each.
  I'm pushing 100 bows might be over and I've used, sold ,traded,gave away all these bows but the ones I use right now. I'm sure their days are nummbered. I'VE NEVER HAD TO ONE TIME EVER RETILLER ANY OF THESE BOWS. I don't know about the other bows but a couple of the ones I've used alot through the years I've shot 10,000's of thousand to a couple bows 100,000's times.
  So unless you shoot a bow alot more than I have. I see no reason to lenthen a fade,a bottom limb longer  or make a bottem limb stiffer.
  Not saying not to do these things I have plenty of times. I did build a bow with longer uper limb fade it did'nt like the look.
 I'm not to smart and not saying I'm right. Use'lly not.
  I just see no reason to. 

[Pappy]

Like said ,no reason not to do it that way,I make all of my equal unless I have a problem and need to shorten on lengthen one but I know a lot that make the top limb longer and like it that way,I really can't tell any differences but some folks say they can, so their you have it / do it /don't do it/ it don't matter either way/ it matters a lot. It seems to me it's kind of like a lot of bow building,to each their own. If you like it that is all that matters.
   Pappy

[hedgeapple]

Thanks Mike, Crooketarrow and Pappy for the responce.  And, it's about what I expected  "make the bow you like."  Cause there many, many ways to skin this old cat.

I like the looks of that hickory bow because center was dead center of the stiff handle and the exactly where folcrum point was with my hand pressure.  And with the arrow pass just an inch above center the string length from bow nock to string nock were nearly the same.  And with limbs being of equal length the bend in each was identical.  Like Crooketarrow said I was all about being pleasing to my eye.  It didn't hurt a bit that it shot really well, also.

[randman]

Cause there many, many ways to skin this old cat.

oooooooeeee! Don't say that around Del, you'll get the "grrrrr Fttzzzz Hissss" 

[hedgeapple]

Cause there many, many ways to skin this old cat.

oooooooeeee! Don't say that around Del, you'll get the "grrrrr Fttzzzz Hissss" 

Ooops!  Sorry Del, I meant to say "skin this old possum" 

[hedgeapple]

Pappy and Crooketarrow, I have a question of how you all lay out your bow to get equal limbs length.  Do you find the center of your stave, mark 2 inche each side of center, which would make your arrow pass 2" above center?

[osage outlaw]

That's the way I do it Dave.  Everything starts from the center.

[hedgeapple]

Thanks Clint.

[spyder1958]

why to go dave. can't wait to see. I'm still playin around and don't have all the finish touches on 4 different bows and one is some yeller wood somebody said made good bows. I'll post up when there finished.
Graylan

[Pappy]

Yes,I fine the center and go 2 maybe 2 1/4 if I am working on one I want a larger handle,then lay out the fads any where from and inch to 2 inches depending on the length of the stave,don't want to wast any working limb on a short one.Then
when I get the bow shooting I move up and down a little and mark where it seem to shoot the best and mark that,that will be my arrow pass. Don't really have a set dimension on where that is but probably about  1 1/2 above center. 
   Pappy

[crooketarrow]

   I build my bows all unless someone wants different. Stiff handle, center shot It the stave alows it,or very close to it. I find center and unless the person has a big hand or wants a big handle. I go 1 1/2 ,1 3/4 to my shelf.
  I tend to my smaller handles with the self side a tad straighterand off center to the left. Not much not even nosicable use less you know what to look for. than the lesft. You get a bow that hits where you look this way.

[hedgeapple]

Thanks Pappy and Crooketarrow, I really appreciate you sharing with me.  I probably spend as much time scratching my head and laying out a bow as I do tillering the darn thing. haha haha