what type of finish and why?

[Sidewinder]

I recently bought a dozen cedar shafts that I intend to finish and seal . My question is what type of store bought finish can one use. What color and why? I would just like to get alot of input and then compare the answers with some of my thoughts before proceeding forward.  Also does anyone paint them and if so what do they seal them with and why?

[Woodbutcher]

 Sidewinder:
 OK, I'll try. Color, 2 choices. (1) White primer. Any kind, interior, exterior, water based or alkyd. Use it like a stain, apply it and wipe it off. I use leftover primer and paper towels.
  OR (2) Rit fabric dye and rubbing alcohol. Get the color you like (I like yellow and red is nice too) Open the Alcohol and pour about half into a container. Empty the Rit into the half full bottle and shake. Pour some alcohol back into the bottle of dye untill it's full. You'll have some clear alcohol left over. Add a bit of the dye mix into the clear stuff and try it on a piece of wood, till you're happy. By diluting the dye you'll get a clearer color, less "muddy". Paper towel works fine. You'll need rubber gloves!!!
 All things considered, polyurethane varnish for a finish is a good choice. Hope this helps.
                                                                           Woodbutcher
 

[M-P]

I can't believe that about 40 different people have't jumped on this one yet.  First question is - what are you planning to use the arrows for/  Second question - How involved do you want to get. Is this a one off project or do think you may be doing a new dozen each week?
If this is to be a set of arrows to show off, but you may not do it again, I would recomend acyrlic paint from your local art store.  Let your imagination be your guide but then seal the entire shaft with polycrylic varnish from the hardware store and use Duco cement to glue on the feathers.
For more a more industrial set up consider buying the dip tubes, lacquers, brushes and  cresting motors etc. available from a large catalogue such as 3Rivers.
Other suggestions   Rit dye from the grocery store,  Walnut husks or other natural dyes or even diluted artist acrylic to stain or dye a portion of the shaft.
I make a moderate number of arrows and enjoy using purpose made lacquers as they work consistantly and provide good protection for the arrow, but recently I've been using the acrylic paint and varnish to produce a more old fashioned look with good results.   For real old fashioned I've read that bear fat over vegetable dye ( like walnut hulls or berry juice) will work.   The whole point is to satisfy your esthetic sense and provide some protection from moisture.

Ron

[Sidewinder]

I won't be doing lots of them so you could call it one off. I do want to do my target arrows a little fancier than my hunting arrows and my stump shooting arrows a little different so I'm thinking that out of the dozen I will have 3 for target, 3 for deer, 3 for stump/rabbit. maybe a couple flu-flu's for wing and squirrel and a spare shaft to fill in the blanks on any that get lost. So they may all be a little different. I was thinking about doing the hunters with a blaze orange shaft in case I miss it might be easier to find in the brush. The rabbit/stump shooters will have judo's so I don't think they will be hard to find so they could be more traditional coloring and the targets could be the fancy ones. I guess I just need to understand what kind of sealer works with what kind of paint/stain and go from there. I fixing to go to Lowes and ask the paint guy about compatibilty.

[Canerod]

I'm no pro by any means, but I use a dark walnut stain and then dip my shafts in spar varnish. It gives a good finish and is made for flexible wooden masts and spars, so I don't worry about durability. Plus, it's the finish I use on the rods I make, so I always have it on hand.

[Woodbutcher]

 Dear Sidewinder:
 Are you concerned about compatibility? Do I detect a certain note of agonizing over this matter? Picture this, new arrows, out hunting, cold day, EVERY feather falls off the shafts. Not me but it's happened. Does that reassure you that your plight is understood? Got to try it before you use it.
 Duco cement works for me with Polyurethane. Orange for shaft color, can do with dye, or pretty close. Cheaper than paint, may be easier for you, is for me. Less than $2 will color more shafts than I can afford.
 One of these days I'll dip the rear part with white, then fletch.
 Putting some sort of clear over the paint sounds pretty good, but is it necessary? Poly gets yellow, and more so over time, so the white gets funky. Works out just fine with yellow dye. Will the clear coat you use turn yellow over time? Some solvent based products yellow over time, water based not so much, but may not wear as well.
 Shooting into straw and foam 3D is hard on finish. Schlopping another coat on to re-do the first six inches is easy with poly.
 Try the finish with the fletching cement. Plain old pine board and feather scraps work for a test. if the stuff peels or pulls off easy, oh well.
 I like wrapping about three eighths inch or a bit less of the leading edge of the fletching. Always wrap uphill.
 The guy from Lowes might not really know the answer to your concern. How many guys from Lowes fletch arrows? If you doubt that, ask him about gasket laquer. Your answers are here on this site. Don't worry about a thing, do as we advise, it'll get screwed up somehow. Make your arrows, shoot em all up, have a ball, and then go make some more. You'll get better regardless of what we say.
 The only way anyone, like me, can poke fun is if they been there, like me! You won't get that from Lowes, either!                                    Woodbutcher

 

[Sidewinder]

yeah, thanks Woodbutcher I hear ya. I have some of the Duco haven't used it yet. It is compatible with par urethane? Good I may go that direction. I like cheap and  durable. I went to Lowes last night and stood there for an hour examining the various products and finally left an decided I needed more input from this site before I made my decision. I agree this is the place to get the info I need. Its been a great help.

[Pat B]

When I was making cedar arrows I used water based paint for crown dips and cresting and spray paint for spraying crowns. I also used water based poly for a clear finish. I still shoot arrows I made 3 or 4 years ago and they are still pretty well sealed. Very little chemical smell with water based paints and polys.
  Tru-Oil makes a good finish on arrows but it takes at least a day per coat.   Pat

[armymedic.2]

quick cote with the squeggie on the cap works great and fast, can seal a dozen in about 30 minutes with three dips.

do no , do not, use inside.  i almost passed out the first night i did it.  increduible smell for the first hour or so, but they are ready to shoot in about 3 hours.