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Author Topic: tiller help (update)  (Read 2194 times)

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Offline KShip85

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tiller help (update)
« on: February 24, 2013, 01:18:52 am »
Need some eyes as mine are burning from trying to decipher what I am seeing.  I can't get a clear picture which is not helping the case and this one is a bit canted which is throwing me off as well.  These Mollys are hard for me...


Kip

« Last Edit: February 24, 2013, 08:37:13 pm by KShip85 »
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Kip Shipley    Bloomington, IN

Offline Newindian

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Re: tiller help
« Reply #1 on: February 24, 2013, 01:39:17 am »
Last two thirds of the working limbs are to stiff
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Offline KShip85

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Re: tiller help
« Reply #2 on: February 24, 2013, 01:55:35 am »
Ok, finally did what I was trying to do.  I can see what you are talking about.  I'll have to scrape some more tomorrow.  Looks like it needs more off the right than the left as well.  Thanks for the input.





Kip

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Kip Shipley    Bloomington, IN

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: tiller help
« Reply #3 on: February 24, 2013, 08:38:06 am »
Use a straight edge. Never a question with one of those. When the gap skinnys, take wood away. It doesnt matter what bow your tillering, it can be used in one way or another. Right now you would have 3/16" gap at the fades and maybe 1/32 mid limb and out.
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Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline KShip85

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Re: tiller help
« Reply #4 on: February 24, 2013, 10:50:32 am »
Thanks PD, I need to find my gizmo, hidden in the shop somewhere right now.  I assume I just leave the bow braced when checking?  Can you use it prior to bracing?  This one had some perry reflex in it and took me awhile to get it braced to a point where I could get a straight edge on it.  Thanks again for the help.

Kip
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Kip Shipley    Bloomington, IN

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: tiller help
« Reply #5 on: February 24, 2013, 11:09:16 am »
Yes, check it any time the bow is bending, no matter at what draw length. Start short and work your way out as you correct flat spots. Eventually you should be tillered at 18-20", then reduce weight evenly from there.
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Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

mikekeswick

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Re: tiller help
« Reply #6 on: February 24, 2013, 02:12:50 pm »
It's bending too much out of the right fade - do not touch here!
The mid to outer right limb needs to be weakened.
The left limb is better but still needs to be bending progressively more the further away from the fade.
The tiller should be elliptical.
The left limb is stronger overall.
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Offline KShip85

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Re: tiller help
« Reply #7 on: February 24, 2013, 08:36:25 pm »
Well, been doing some sanding and attempting to use the gizmo, still a little new to it.  How's it looking now?  I've got braced and unbraced profiles too.

Kip






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Kip Shipley    Bloomington, IN

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: tiller help (update)
« Reply #8 on: February 24, 2013, 10:18:50 pm »
Thats better. What does the straight edge tell you?
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Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline KShip85

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Re: tiller help (update)
« Reply #9 on: February 24, 2013, 11:19:56 pm »
Best I can tell its showing pretty even.  Might be a couple spots that are a touch stiff yet.  Here's a look at it drawn out to 25".  Still having issues with picture clarity



Kip
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Kip Shipley    Bloomington, IN

Offline KShip85

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Re: tiller help (update)
« Reply #10 on: February 25, 2013, 07:05:57 pm »
Well, on to the next one.  Pulled a splinter on the back today where there was some grain run off on the backing strip.  Time to look for some new hackberry to cut for more backing strips.  With better grain it would have held I think.  This thing was super light in the hand and shot pretty hard.  I'm gluing the splinter back down but am not super hopeful about it.


Kip
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Kip Shipley    Bloomington, IN
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