Author Topic: Sapwood layer on hickory (Read 23978 times)

Franklyn · « **on:** October 23, 2007, 11:08:59 am »

Greetings to all

I am very new to this site, and have enjoyed traditional archery a long time - semi - retired now and want to work a hickory log into a few primitive bows. The log has been seasoned, bark removed and hand split into staves. This was all done in the summer time. There is a heavy layer of white sapwood remaining on the staves. Does this have to be removed before being made into a bow. My experience level for this endeavour is low but, as has been said by knowledgeable people before, a bow cannot be made until the chips fly and any expertise you could provide will leave me indebted forever. Thanks for any help.

Hillbilly · « **Reply #1 on:** October 23, 2007, 11:32:59 am »

Welcome aboard. For a hickory bow, the sapwood is what you want. The first ring under the bark is the back of your bow. Start making some shavings, and everybody on here will be glad to help you with any questions.

Pappy · « **Reply #2 on:** October 23, 2007, 12:59:31 pm »

Like Hillbilly said all you need to do is clean it up a little and lay out the bow on the back and go
at it.And welcome the more the merrier.

Pappy

cowboy · « **Reply #3 on:** October 23, 2007, 03:49:31 pm »

Ditto

. Can you post a picture of the end of your stave?

Franklyn · « **Reply #4 on:** October 23, 2007, 04:54:23 pm »

Thanks for replies and Cowboy, I'll take a picture and include it here, or, I will TRY and include it here.

Franklyn · « **Reply #5 on:** October 23, 2007, 08:53:03 pm »

Cowboy, trying to leave photos now - wish me luck! Thanks again for viewing

[attachment deleted by admin]

Pat B · « **Reply #6 on:** October 23, 2007, 09:11:12 pm »

I think the heart wood of hickory in more brittle than the sap wood. It would be good for belly wood and probably fine for self bows. I have always used the wood closest to the bark for hickory bows. Pat

cowboy · « **Reply #7 on:** October 23, 2007, 11:44:07 pm »

Those look like some good staves Franklyn - thanks for posting. Reason I wanted to see em was I have only cut about half dozen Hic's and don't recall ever seeing any heart wood in any of them (one was about a fourteen incher at base). Must be a different kind of hickory.
What Pat said - right under the bark is a good back

.

Pappy · « **Reply #8 on:** October 24, 2007, 06:35:56 am »

How thick is the heart wood ?I work with a lot of Hickory and if it is 2 inches or so you can put a wedge right where the heart and sap meets and it will split right down the stave.We have made a few bows from the heart wood but like Pat said it is more brittle.They worked out OK but
I was a little afraid of it.Splitting it out just make it easier to work with and gets rid of a bunch of un wanted wood and you also have a heart wood stave left.

Pappy

Franklyn · « **Reply #9 on:** October 24, 2007, 08:18:59 am »

Thanks, again, you have cleared up my main concerns here. I was helping a fellow pick up some wood from a logging operation about three years back for his Winter wood supply when this log came in, about two feet in diameter,and, eight feet long A fellow operating the mill said they didn't have much use for it for veneer purposes and when I noticed the straight grain, we made a deal right there and brought it home. I took the bark off it immediately and split it into what you saw in the photos and it has been in an enclosed woodshed ever since. It is not showing any signs of check marks ( I had sealed the end with white glue ) and sure is dry, appears to be about 7-11% which is dry in this neck of the woods. I have some smaller pieces I will experiment with first with your advice and hopefully turn out a self bow that's workable for 2008.
The heartwood in most of the split out sections is likely 4" compared to the sapwood layer which is 1-2 inches - it varies - very few knots but there is a bit of twist - in most sections, I think it can be worked around. It split great and followed the grain for the whole length. These sections are still eight feet long - hopefully lots of room for all the errors I will likely make.

Pappy · « **Reply #10 on:** October 24, 2007, 08:54:35 am »

Sounds good,if the sap is no thicker than that I would just go with it as is.Be sure to keep it dry especially when you get ready to start bending it.I like to tiller Hickory in 3 or 4 sessions.First get it floor tillered and rest in a dry place then to brace and dry then out to 15/18 inches and dry and then to full draw with a dry or so in between in a hot box or AC duck or near a heater in the winter.
This will really cut down on the set and string follow it will take.Then seal it good to keep as much moisture out as possible.Hope this helps and good luck with you project.

Pappy

MattE · « **Reply #11 on:** October 24, 2007, 09:41:26 am »

What kind of Hickory do you have? I can't recall ever seeing any that looks like yours.Some pecan is darker than Pignut . Is this the type you have?

Franklyn · « **Reply #12 on:** October 24, 2007, 12:47:11 pm »

Matt, around here the outdoor seniors call this stuff just plain hickory but from the bark and size I'm pretty sure it is the pignut or a close relative - red hickory. I'm in the SE section of Ontario and pecan not known around here but possible, I guess. The surface or outer layer sapwood next to the bark certainly resembles the bows I have viewed in the past.

Primitive Archer