Second Attempt

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

Thanks Chris and JW... I am trying to take this thing ultra slow. I find that if I rush it and just hog wood off it ends up over the back bank where all the dead trees rest now. Hopefully this weekend I will start to post pictures of the bow bending. I definately will need help through pictures and I may try posting a video of the bow bending.

I really need to find someone to make me a tillering gizmo... mine is awful even when I followed the plans Eric put up. My pencil slides out after I adjust it so I think that is why I am having problems tillering the bow. I may see if someone wants to swap me something for making one for me that actually works.

Again thanks Chris and JW! I need all the help I can get... you guys really help

[PEARL DRUMS]

Lots of pics Justing. Just dont be too timid with it, thats another great way to make 30# bows. Heat tempered elm is tough, dont be scared to bend it some. Gizmos are fine, but any 5-6" long straight edge will work. When the gap skinnys you scrape that area. Once you can run that scraper down the belly from fade to 8" shy of the tips without that gap changing, your tillered. You should try to get it tillered out by 15-16" of draw. That way you can land on any poundage you want and not miss it by a pound. Trust that gap you see, it rarely lies to you.

[Adam]

That's great advice Pearl.  I'm going to have to try that.  It seems so simple, but I never would have thought of it.

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

Cool Chris sounds good! Made a new Bosnia tonight out of cocobolo. Put two coats of finish on it. Nothin fancy but works. I will get it bending a little more than heat temper...pics to come!

[H Rhodes]

That is an awesome looking piece of elm!  Looks like it is coming along nicely!

 Pearly is giving you great advice.  I don't tiller with a proper gizmo either - I have a little five inch block of 1 X 2 and use it exactly like he described.    When I run it along the belly of the bow and it shows a big gap of light between the block and the bow - I put a line across the belly to remind me not to remove any wood from that spot, since it could be a hinge developing there.  When that gap of light between the block and the belly gets thin, I see a need for more bending, so I scribble on that area with my marker.   Then it's off the tree and more rasping/sanding.  I agree that heat tempering elm is what makes it really perform.
 
You are doing great.  I couldn't really tell from the pic, but was the inner bark/cambium layer still on the back of your stave?