Tiller help

[KShip85]

Well I've checked weight and somehow yet again I manged to drastically miss my intended weight.  I thought my limbs were still a little thick and now I'm about 20 lbs under where I wanted to be.  Ever since blowing a cedar bow I really pushed I've not been able to hit weight.

Has anyone ever tried adding a backing strip to up the weight?  My thought is I could add a trapped hickory back and up the weight.  Is this possible?  I like the looks and feel of this bow but would like it to reach weight.  If there's no chance a backing could work I guess I'll just give it to my wife and see if she will start shooting some. 

Thanks for the help all.


Kip

[akila]

Sorry aboute that...told u, to take it slow.....u can  up the weight by gluing some strips on the belly, and retiller the bow again...its up to you iff u think the bow worth the effort to do that, but its possibile to  do it...

[PEARL DRUMS]

Cut 1.5" off each end. Those levers aren't doing anything anywho. The only way to start building bows that hit your weight is to start pulling them farther sooner, providing your not hinged up anywhere. You cant be scared to bend a bow while tillering. If you tinker around with a long string and never put anymore than 20-25# of pull on the bow you will end up with a rack full of 40 pounders. Get the tiller closer earlier and brace when you can. Forget about the thickness of the limbs, its irrelevant. .


I llike to low brace as soon as I can physically make it happen, ask the guys that worked with me last weekend at MartyJam. They think Im crazy, for many reasons of course, but I like my bows and will keep early low bracing them. It allows me to get any weight I want. So what if I take an extra 1/8" of set because I braced it at 75-80# and want a 55-60# bow in the end. Most all that belly wood will be gone by the time I get down to my target weight anyway. When I say low braced, Im mean 1-3" max.

[KShip85]

Pearl, would it be possible/worth it to cut some length and resplice the tips back in?  Only reason I ask is that I don't want to lose all the recurve out there and also I have figured black walnut overlays on the tips.  Wondering if I could cut the levers in the straighter part and do a 1.5" V-splice.  What are your thoughts on a backing strip?


Kip

[PEARL DRUMS]

Ypu lost me. If you cut it off and then add it back, what are you gaining?

[KShip85]

I was thinking if I do a v-splice then I would lose the length of that splice.  Say I cut the lever then cut the splice and glue it back I think I'd lose in length whatever the size of the splice was.  Not sure if I'm being clear or not.


Kip

[Pappy]

I llike to low brace as soon as I can physically make it happen, ask the guys that worked with me last weekend at MartyJam. They think Im crazy, for many reasons of course, but I like my bows and will keep early low bracing them. It allows me to get any weight I want. So what if I take an extra 1/8" of set because I braced it at 75-80# and want a 55-60# bow in the end. Most all that belly wood will be gone by the time I get down to my target weight anyway. When I say low braced, Im mean 1-3" max.
What he said,very good advice.  You start doing that you will start making weight on most bow barring any major problem,and yes I would pike it also.
   Pappy

[Carson (CMB)]

Like Pearl said and pappy echoed.  Brace early.  That is what I do now.