Author Topic: Stave sealing questions  (Read 2559 times)

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Offline IdahoMatt

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Stave sealing questions
« on: February 05, 2013, 12:51:21 am »
I have some black locust that I just split up and was wondering if I needed to chase a ring under the sap wood then seal the back and ends, or can I violate the rings with a ban saw then seal.

Offline Pat B

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Re: Stave sealing questions
« Reply #1 on: February 05, 2013, 01:22:29 am »
You do not want to violate the back ring. Do it the right way and enjoy the wood as you build your bow.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline osage outlaw

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Re: Stave sealing questions
« Reply #2 on: February 05, 2013, 01:24:22 am »
I used a bandsaw to remove the bark and sapwood on osage before.  I violated many rings which caused a lot of work down the road cleaning it up and chasing a good one.  It also adds wear and tear on your saw and blade.  I'll stick to the drawknife.  As far as sealing, it was the same.  I didn't get any checks from the ones I sawed out.
I started out with nothin' and I still got most of it left

Offline IdahoMatt

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Re: Stave sealing questions
« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2013, 01:36:31 am »
I have about 20 viable staves how long do I have to get it all done

Offline osage outlaw

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Re: Stave sealing questions
« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2013, 01:40:37 am »
As long as it takes.  Some people leave the bark on until they are ready to make the bow.  I prefer to take them down to heartwood and seal them.  If you do leave the bark on make sure to keep some bug spray on them.  If you take the bark off, take the sapwood off to, then seal, seal, and seal.
I started out with nothin' and I still got most of it left

Offline IdahoMatt

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Re: Stave sealing questions
« Reply #5 on: February 05, 2013, 01:45:47 am »
Thanks man I really appreciate the help.  What would you use to seal?

Offline osage outlaw

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Re: Stave sealing questions
« Reply #6 on: February 05, 2013, 02:12:31 am »
Shellac, poly, glue, paint, etc.
I started out with nothin' and I still got most of it left

Offline Badly Bent

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Re: Stave sealing questions
« Reply #7 on: February 05, 2013, 11:10:28 am »
Ditto to Outlaws reply and as far as sealing I personally prefer shellac because you can take it off easy with alcohol when your ready to
finish the back.
Greg
I ain't broke but I'm badly bent.

Offline IdahoMatt

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Re: Stave sealing questions
« Reply #8 on: February 05, 2013, 11:32:34 am »
Thanks again guys I need to get on it then.   :)
Baby On the way any day now.

Offline IdahoMatt

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Re: Stave sealing questions
« Reply #9 on: February 05, 2013, 12:40:41 pm »
If there is a little rot in the middle of a log is it fire wood?

Offline Carson (CMB)

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Re: Stave sealing questions
« Reply #10 on: February 05, 2013, 01:13:45 pm »
I havent worked with BL before, but from its reputation of being hit or miss, I would be very wary of any rot.  Can you avoid the rot with your layout?  Does the rot have defined boundaries, or does it fade into the good wood?
"The bow is the old first lyre,
the mono chord, the initial rune of fine art
The humanities grew out from archery as a flower from a seed
No sooner did the soft, sweet note of the bow-string charm the ear of genius than music was born, and from music came poetry and painting and..." Maurice Thompso

Offline Pat B

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Re: Stave sealing questions
« Reply #11 on: February 05, 2013, 01:31:34 pm »
Locust, like osage is rot resistant but in large locust trees especially the centers rot out. This generally won't affect the rest of the wood. As long as the wood feels sound it should be.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline osage outlaw

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Re: Stave sealing questions
« Reply #12 on: February 05, 2013, 01:44:36 pm »
Black Locust and Osage are a lot alike in some ways.  That big osage I cut had a rotten hollow core about the size of a baseball bat in some parts of it.  The rest of the wood was good. 
I started out with nothin' and I still got most of it left