questions on hand shock pics added

[jturkey]

I finally finished a 52#@ 27 inch red oak board bow backed with silk. It is 72" tip to tip 70" nock to nock with osage tip overlay's with a string nochs 1/2" from the tips on both upper and lower. it is also the first bow that I have made that has considerable hand shock. what i would like to know if i used a less stretch string like dyna-flight or fast-flight would this stop some or all the hand shock not sure i can remove anymore material from the  7/16" nocks. it is dimensionally from center 1 5/8" straight to 17" out the limb then narrows directly to the tips from there to 7/16". the handle is 10" stiff with 2" fades and has a 1/8" from centerline  shelf cut into the riser area 1 1/2" up from center  line of the bow from tip to tip. the bow shoots a cane arrow fast and accurate but has the hand shock that really hurts my knuckles please help.i'll get some pictures up as soon as i can

[Pappy]

Fast flight will help and you should be able to narrow the tip to 3/8 or less without a problem,I usuall narrow the last 6 to 8 inches in the non bending area.
  Pappy

[Keenan]

As Pappy said.  I will often leave the last ten inches of the limb slightly thicker and stiff then narrow until I just start to see the slightest hint of flex.  This will take away any excess wood on that outer third.   Also remember that you only need enough tip past the nock point to keep the string on, any extra is just dead weight.  And last help would be to shoot a little heavier arrow.

[Eric Krewson]

For a 27" draw your bow is a bit too long and has a lot of extra wood to slow the arrow down and cause hand shock.  I would cut it to 64-66" and follow Pappy's advice to make the tips much narrower.

Limbs that are out of time are often the cause of excessive hand shock as well. Do you have a full draw picture of your bow? One look and we can tell if you have one limb stronger then the other as well as any tillering anomalies that would cause hand shock.

[jturkey]

yes i do i will have to post it later today i have to run ang go to work now ttyl

[jturkey]

my draw is 27" my brothers is 28" it is 54+#at 28" but for my purposes it is 27"draw taking in to account 10" stiff handle and 3"non working tips at the moment. using the 1/2 minus 10% rule i figured it was just about right for the length of the bow and i have 3 other redoak board bows that are pretty much the same design with no real hand shock so to speak of i was curious how to fix this one

[PEARL DRUMS]

Must be a timing/tiller issue.

[jturkey]

The draw picture is at 25 inchs but looks good to me.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I was wrong, there isnt anything wrong with that bend.

[bubby]

try a heavyer arrow and some string silencers

[jturkey]

made a flast flight string took out almost all the shock barely noticeable now thanks for the help i did not think the tips were too heavy but i have been wrong before. and i will raise my arrow weight when i match the arrows to the bow.
 

[SLIMBOB]

That's a lot of wood being slung forward.

[DarkSoul]

The tiller looks great to me - that's not the issue. I also don't think the bow is too long. The tips do seem a little bit on the heavy side. The overlay could be half as thick, and the tips are also a bit too wide. Nothing extreme, but I'm sure shaving down those tips will help.
What weight are your arrows? You should be shooting between 8 and 12 grains per pound drawweight. Arrows that are underweight will increase handshock.

By the way, what's that black stuff on the back? Is it just paint or something else?

[jturkey]

it is actually green silk on the back not pait there will be a pair of cotton mouths put on the back unless i get a cooler looking pair of canebrakes to place on the back the overlays are only 3/16th of an inch they look bigger than they are. my phone does not take color pictures very well is mainly my problem with getting it too look right
 

[bow101]

Kind of looks like heavy tips.