Author Topic: osage staves  (Read 5248 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Will H

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,120
Re: osage staves
« Reply #15 on: December 23, 2012, 08:05:46 pm »
Those look like some great billets! I'm with pearl and George, definatley chase a ring. It's true that it's common to pull up and tear some wood when chasing a ring. But I only do that when I'm hogging off wood somewhat haphazardly on the way down to a desired ring. I would never leave that on a back of a selfbow.
As for squaring up easily without a bandsaw... That's gonna require you layout some square lines on the ends and get after it with your hand tools. I would either start with a drAwknife or ferriers rasp then swap to a 49 or 50 rasp as you get close to the lines.

Good luck! Looks like you have some great potential bow wood!
Proud Member of Twin Oaks Bowhunters
           Clarksville, Tennessee

   "Middle Tennessee is the place to be"

Offline Eric Krewson

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,432
Re: osage staves
« Reply #16 on: December 23, 2012, 08:27:28 pm »
The best way to lay out splices is to draw them on a piece of paper, lay out a center line on your billets and glue the splice pattern to your billet matching the pattern to the center line.


Offline bobbykelley

  • Member
  • Posts: 82
Re: osage staves
« Reply #17 on: December 30, 2012, 10:22:54 am »
OK so I got my billets together (not the best splice job but I think it will do). But I had a few ?'s. They ended up with about 2 7/8" reflex, the top has a little more then the bottom, I kept the back of the bow as close to level as I could. Will this be OK? And there was a few knots/pin's on the back I left extra rings around them, should I sand them down some? On the belly of the bow there are some checks and a knot any hints on how to take care of these? And one last thing the limbs twist a little but they do it opposite of eachother, should I wait until I rough out the bow before trying to bend then back? Thanks for any help. Here's some pic's.
I make mistakes but I learn.

Offline Fred Arnold

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,566
  • From up on Munson Creek
Re: osage staves
« Reply #18 on: December 30, 2012, 10:58:03 am »
I recognize the staves and he does have some nice osage but he's a little careless when taking off the bark and sapwood. I would definitely take the time to chase a ring on this one or else at least fill in the voids and back it.
I found many years ago that it is much easier and more rewarding working with those that don't know anything than those that know it all.

Offline bobbykelley

  • Member
  • Posts: 82
Re: osage staves
« Reply #19 on: January 05, 2013, 01:08:40 pm »
Well my splice didn't hold up. Any suggestions? I used a 2 part epoxy, but the side of the of the z splice came unglued.
I make mistakes but I learn.

Offline PEARL DRUMS

  • Member
  • Posts: 14,079
  • }}}--CK-->
Re: osage staves
« Reply #20 on: January 05, 2013, 01:53:03 pm »
Never used epoxy for a splice. I use URAC or its new replacement. Its an actual wood bonding 2 part glue that doesnt let go for anybody.
Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline gstoneberg

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,889
Re: osage staves
« Reply #21 on: January 05, 2013, 04:13:31 pm »
I've only used epoxy and have never had a splice fail.  Sometimes on the edges it helps to run a piece of tape to hold the glue where you want it.  Never use 5min epoxy on a splice, too brittle.  I've always used smooth-on.  Pricey, but it always works.

George
St Paul, TX

Offline bobbykelley

  • Member
  • Posts: 82
Re: osage staves
« Reply #22 on: January 05, 2013, 07:12:27 pm »
The smooth-on is what I used. Don't know maybe my splices didn't match up good. I've matched them up better now and will let it set for a week or 2. Thanks for the help.
I make mistakes but I learn.