Quick Question about bracing a bow

[Scaramouche]

If it takes all your strength to brace it, might that be too ambitious a draw weight?

[Del the cat]

Depends... ELBs which are taller than you can be a pig to brace even at quite manageable draw weights.
Anything with reflex can be a pig too.
So that's a 'no' really.
Del

[osage outlaw]

I gradually go from the long string to brace height.  When on the long string I get everything evened up and just keep removing wood and shortening the string until I get it to the normal brace height.  Trying to brace it to early can cause damage if you have a weak spot or a hinge.

[SLIMBOB]

+1 osage outlaw.

[DavidV]

How are you bracing it? I use the step-through method for everything because I don't have a stringer, it's been pretty easy so far but I only make bows around 50 lbs.

[Roy]

I would buy a stringer, instead of risking an injury to the bow or yourself.

[seabass]

+1 on the stringer.it is safer and easier.

[Scaramouche]

@David, I'm probably doing it wrong. I've got one tip braced against a foot, pulling on the handle with one hand, and pushing down on the other while running the slip loop up to the nocks. It's a deflexed-in-the-handle osage, probably drawing 80# or so right now. I'm guesstimating based on my desire for it to draw 80# or so.

@Roy, money's tight, but making a stringer sounds like a good idea.

[Del the cat]

Your (push pull) method is fine, but it will be tough on 80#. (Much safer than step through)
A stringer is just a length of cord* with a loop in each end, just a bit longer than the bow... zero cost.
File and extra groove just above the top nock.
Lower stringer loop sits on top of the regular sting lower loop (or you can make another groove or enlarge the existing one). top stringer loop sits in the new mock grooves.
Tread on the middle of the stringer pull up on the grip with one hand and slide top loop along the limb into it's nock... bish bash boch, job done.
Del
* Even braided nylon cord is ok, as the bit of stretch doesn't matter

[dwardo]

On shorter bows if I cant push/pull string it then its still got too much wood on it.
For much longer bows its the step through method.
Stringers always seemed unnatural to me due to the fact that you are pulling the bow towards your face where if it does go pop you will end up with splinters in your teeth.   

[Del the cat]

On shorter bows if I cant push/pull string it then its still got too much wood on it.
For much longer bows its the step through method.
Stringers always seemed unnatural to me due to the fact that you are pulling the bow towards your face where if it does go pop you will end up with splinters in your teeth. 

I find I need the odd smack in the mouth to keep me in line
Del

[Onebowonder]

<snip>towards your face where if it does go pop you will end up with splinters in your teeth. 

I find I need the odd smack in the mouth to keep me in line
Del

Yew or even ERC splinters projected by 120 -170 lbs of exploded pull, possibly with a violently whipped length of bowstring, can accomplish quite a lot of 'odd smack' re-alignment I am sure!

[k-hat]

I'd sure hate for a bow to blow whilst doing the step-through

Anymore, all my bows get stringing nocks and i make a fancy double loop stringer that just fits out of nylon rope.  Better for people who don't have a lot of experience, harder for them to torque the bow one way or another.  Even push-pull can unevenly stress the liimbs and throw tiller off if not done correctly.