splices

[Lee Lobbestael]

well I'm starting on some yew billets and I have never spliced before. First I tried the Z splice and could not get the two side to match up no matter how much I sanded.
Fortunately I left the billets long enough to cut off the old splices and start fresh.
I was thinking that I would have better luck trying the V splice.
Has anyone used the V splice?
Also what glue is best for splicing?

[vinemaplebows]

Yes, the v splice will be sufficient, and for a loose joint I would use a epoxy there are many to choose from.....Urac, unibond, 2 ton epoxy slow set...ect.

VMB

[Jim Davis]

If a splice is at all close to fitting, you can steam the parts, clamp them together snuggly, and when it all cools down, you'll have a fine fit.

I always use Titebond II for my splices. It fills small gaps, swells the wood slightly, and doesn't run out of the joint. No mixing no fuss, just a strong waterproof joint.

Jim Davis

[rps3]

Asharrow, just for my clarification, do you splice bows at the handle with tb2, if so, what is the highest pound draw weight you have achieved doing this? I ask because never having done this myself, and having a supply of short osage in need of splicing, your method sounds more simple than buying urac only to have most of it expire before I use it up.

[paulsemp]

I have found the the best way for me to cut a z splice is to draw it on paper, cut it out, and glue it on the billet. That way you have a exact match instead of laying each one out separately. I think I learned that from someone on here.

[Jim Davis]

Asharrow, just for my clarification, do you splice bows at the handle with tb2, if so, what is the highest pound draw weight you have achieved doing this? I ask because never having done this myself, and having a supply of short osage in need of splicing, your method sounds more simple than buying urac only to have most of it expire before I use it up.

Yes, I use a Z splice at the handle and use Titebond II. I have spliced lots of white woods and more locust, but have spliced one Osage. The Osage was back in '99 and is still holding. That was a light bow for my son, but the white woods and locust have been up to 50#. Never had even one splice come apart.

[Pat B]

You can always add an overlay to cover and strengther the splice and it you add a riser it will also strengthen the joint.

[Tom Leemans]

The first splice I ever did was a W splice as shown by Glenn St.Charles in "Billet To Bows". A great video to get your hands on, if nothing, just to watch a master at work. For cripes sake he felled his tree with an axe! You divide the 4" handle section on each billet in half on one end and in thirds on the other, then connect the dots. You remove opposing areas on each billet.

When I do BBO's I use a Z splice and URAC. The fit doesn't have to be perfect. The glue fills gaps well. I made an upside down "T" jig (about 6 feet long) to clamp everything to, to make it straight. After URAC runs out, we all have to switch to Unibond 800.

[Del the cat]

I recently had a V splice give way on a 50# ELB, but I managed to repair it and added a thin belly and back overlay to beef up the grip a tad.
I've seen a 170# ELB made of spliced billets, seen it being shot too
I'd advise a non flexing handle with a bit of extra timber, if in doubt I'd suggestrather than  building up the grip at the back with leather for comfort, add a thin sliver of sapwood as an overlay instead, it will add to the stiffnes, resist any tension and bridge the dissconinuity in the sapwood on the back.
There are blog entries of the original splice and repair on my 'Bowyers Diary' (just google it to see)
Del