Author Topic: hinge repair? (Read 2660 times)

JEB · « **on:** December 12, 2012, 12:29:05 am »

Was there an article in one of the PA magazines on how to patch a hinge on a bow limb? if so can someone tell me what issue? Thanks

Carson (CMB) · « **Reply #1 on:** December 12, 2012, 12:02:19 pm »

I have that issue somewhere and Dean Torges is the author of the article. I don't have the issue number handy, but if you google "dean torges the bowyers edge limb patch" An article on his blog will come up.

Keenan · « **Reply #2 on:** December 12, 2012, 12:04:18 pm »

JEB, I'm not sure what issue of the mag but there are several ways to correct a hinge. If you are still heavy enough of the bow just scrape the other areas and leave the hinged area alone, it will even up when equal. If already at target weight then you could strengthen that area by adding sinew to that area and then skin or rawhide over it. Another method is to heat treat the belly of that area. However removing any discoloration without removing strength is the balance

Pappy · « **Reply #3 on:** December 12, 2012, 12:22:23 pm »

I have also added a patch on the belly of the area,the trick is to have it thick enough to do some good but thin enough to bend with the limb or it will pop off
like a handle area glue up will do if it is stiff in an area that is bending.

I have done this a few times with pretty good success. I usually glue on a fairly thin patch and the thin it some more with a rasp and scarper till I think it will bend with the limb. TB3 will hold the patch,just be sure and let it cure before you start bending. Good advice Keenan gave if you have the weight to give.

Pappy

JEB · « **Reply #4 on:** December 12, 2012, 04:55:15 pm »

Thanks everyone, thats the article. It wasn't for me but a friend that wants to try and do a repair.

PEARL DRUMS · « **Reply #5 on:** December 12, 2012, 04:57:24 pm »

I knew it couldnt be you Jon! You know better buddy!

chamookman · « **Reply #6 on:** December 12, 2012, 06:25:40 pm »

I did one (Osage) patch/ fix just as Pappy described, except I used Resorsinal. It held up pretty good - that bow shot HUNDREDS of arrows after the patch. Mr. Davis dubbed it the "plywood bow"

. Bob

Jim Davis · « **Reply #7 on:** December 13, 2012, 12:23:18 am »

You can also machine out a gap and fill it with better wood. Here is a limb that had a weak knot on the edge of the bellyI cut a wedge-shaped ramp about 3/16 deep at the edge tapering up to belly level. Then I made a block to fill it the ramp area. Made the block a little too wide to go in the ramp so that flexing the limb a little just let it in.

Glued the block in, trimmed it down when the glue cured and was good to go.

Jim Davis

Pappy · « **Reply #8 on:** December 13, 2012, 06:32:29 am »

That's pretty cool looking fix Jim,may need that some day.

Thanks.
Pappy

Eric Krewson · « **Reply #9 on:** December 13, 2012, 12:09:07 pm »

I have fixed a hing by reflexing the bow in a form and really hitting the hingy spot with heat. Not quite toasting the spot because I keep the heat gun moving but very close. The last one I did hardened the wood so much I had to remove more wood to get the former hingy spot bending.

The naysayers will say the above procedure is impossible but I have done the same thing a bunch of times.

Jim Davis · « **Reply #10 on:** December 13, 2012, 01:45:26 pm »

Hate to publicly agree with Eric, ;)but yes, I often use heat to stiffen a weak place. Sometimes use heat to make final adjustments to tiller--toughen a weak area rather than scrape a strong area.

Primitive Archer