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Author Topic: osage staves  (Read 5227 times)

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Offline bobbykelley

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osage staves
« on: December 11, 2012, 03:45:35 pm »
I'm buying 2 osage staves and their 42 1/2" l, 2 1/4" w, 1 1/4" t. Could I make a ok bow out of one of these? Just getting them to practice on but was wondering if I might be able to get a bow that mybe my sons could shoot. ThanksfThanks for any input.
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Offline Pat B

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Re: osage staves
« Reply #1 on: December 11, 2012, 03:52:03 pm »
At 42 1/2" you will have to limit the draw length to less than 21" and even then the bow should bend throughout it entire length.  You could splice the two staves together at the handle and make one full sized bow.
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Offline toomanyknots

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Re: osage staves
« Reply #2 on: December 11, 2012, 04:04:30 pm »
Quote from: Pat B on December 11, 2012, 03:52:03 pm
At 42 1/2" you will have to limit the draw length to less than 21" and even then the bow should bend throughout it entire length.  You could splice the two staves together at the handle and make one full sized bow.

You could sinew back it to get a little bit more drawlength, or assurance I should say. I would shoot for a backed bend in the handle d bow if it was me. Or you could splice some siyahs/recurves/molly levers on it too. Although, one of my first "real" bows I ever made was a 36" (or so) sinew backed osage bow, made from an osage branch a guy in kentucky let me have after he cut down an osage tree in his back yard. It might of been longer as it seems unlikely to me too, but that is what I remember, and it was a small bow. I made the bow with a kitchen knife and some sandpaper I think, I might of had a couple files too. It was the first sinew backing, and the first hideglue I had ever made as well. I had just discovered TBB's and was on a roll,  >:D. The bow pulled about 50# or maybe a little more at my full 26" draw. (Stacked like crazy.) And only one limb had about 1/2" set. It didn't have the best tiller, after sinewing backing, the tiller went a bit asymmetrical. It was also the first bow I ever gave a nice finish too.
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"The way of heaven is like the bending of a bow-
 the upper part is pressed down,
 the lower part is raised up,
 the part that has too much is reduced,
 the part that has too little is increased."

- Tao Te Ching, 77, A new translation by Victor H. Mair

Offline Will H

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Re: osage staves
« Reply #3 on: December 11, 2012, 04:46:21 pm »
I would suggest splicing the two together. It's much easier to make a longer bow as a beginner. Also splicing is not hard to do as long as you have access to a bandsaw :) just my 2 cents... Take it for what it's worth :)
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Offline osage outlaw

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Re: osage staves
« Reply #4 on: December 11, 2012, 04:53:24 pm »
My 2 cents are the exact same as Will's. 
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Stringman

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Re: osage staves
« Reply #5 on: December 11, 2012, 05:00:05 pm »
And those 4 cents are worth a lot more than 4 cents. Just plain good advise!

Scott
« Last Edit: December 11, 2012, 08:04:21 pm by Stringman »
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: osage staves
« Reply #6 on: December 11, 2012, 05:25:27 pm »
If you dont have a bandsaw the take down sleeves are a breeze.
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Offline bobbykelley

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Re: osage staves
« Reply #7 on: December 11, 2012, 06:58:55 pm »
Thankw everyone for the replies. I may give the splice a try but to tell you the truth now that pearl drums brings it up I kind of like the idea of the sleeves. I seen someone else on here talking about it and thought that was cool. Pearl  do you know of a help along for doing sleeves?
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: osage staves
« Reply #8 on: December 11, 2012, 07:01:30 pm »
Ill bring it up. Its vague at best, mostly pics.
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Offline bobbykelley

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Re: osage staves
« Reply #9 on: December 17, 2012, 03:08:26 pm »
Ok so I got my billits today. And this is what they look like. On the back it looks like chuncks taken out, whats the best way to get it smooth? Also I see one knot in one of the billits should I put it closer to the handle? I know I need to splice them or do a sleeve. I think the sleeve would be easier so I my order a set. Any input on the best way to make a bow out of these 2 would be very helpful and I mean any help. Thank you.
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: osage staves
« Reply #10 on: December 17, 2012, 03:16:30 pm »
Get the draw knife out and chase a ring down to get a clean back.
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Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: osage staves
« Reply #11 on: December 17, 2012, 03:17:36 pm »
Thats some good wood by the way. Nice rings, good color and very good ratio.
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Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline tom sawyer

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Re: osage staves
« Reply #12 on: December 17, 2012, 06:11:57 pm »
Its not uncommon to pull a few splinters when chasing a ring.  From the looks of those billets I'd say you could just use them without going down another ring.  Its fun and good practice to chase a ring though.
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Lennie
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Offline gstoneberg

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Re: osage staves
« Reply #13 on: December 18, 2012, 12:21:09 am »
Those backs look like they were worked green (with no regard for a growth ring) and then sealed.  That is what I would do in that situation too.  Every time I work green osage it tears out like that.  I would for sure go down to a single ring on them.  I agree with Pearlie, those look very good to me.  As for knots, you just have to follow the growth ring up and over or around them on the bow back.  Unless a knot is loose you should be able to tiller just fine with the knot there.  If it's loose, take the knot out and you'll likely have a hole in your bow.  Looking forward to seeing your progress.

George
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Offline bobbykelley

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Re: osage staves
« Reply #14 on: December 23, 2012, 07:48:32 pm »
What would be the eazest way to get billets square so that I can splice them? Don't think a 9" bandsaw can handle it.
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