Didn't mean to insult. I've seen your craftsmanship and know you can make a good bow. But you did say the warbows you made were made years ago which lends me to believe you may not have been at the skill level you are now. I know A few years ago my bows were no good. I just can't see how you're making those claims when they make no sense. And I don't claim to have godlike bow making abilities. Most of that was joking around. Maybe one day though. 
Ya, I probably got the emotional maturity of a 10 year old. I suck at heated forum discussions. I apologize, and will delete my previous post. But the only so called "claims" I am making are well known facts. Yes, I know the definition of a fact is something that can be proven, blah blah blah, you know what I mean.
Here you go so you don't go putting words in my mouth,
this is all I am saying:
- Osage is not a great choice for a warbow because it's density can make it sluggish and shocky at longer lengths. This ain't no claim, it's a well known fact.
- There are way better (read: better performing, because that is what matters to me) choices of bow wood for a warbow, or even a longbow.
- Because of this, I believe osage is not ideal in every scenario. (I also think that I can easily get better performance in other styles of bow out of "white woods" than osage, too while were at it, but I would never dare try to argue that in public after all this,
.)
- And only as a result of our discussion, I will tell you now, that a 76" - 78" warbow will always pull a thousand times smoother in the last couple inches of draw compared to a 72" warbow. I believe tiller has alot to due with the nature of the draw, and that an elliptical tiller on a shorter bow does have the potential to stack in the last couple inches, due to string angle like george pointed out. I firmly believe that an elliptical tiller is not ideal tiller for a warbow for this reason, and that of the added set an elliptical tiller has the potential to create (sometimes). Although I know elliptically tillered warbows are the norm alot of the time, and it is very very common. I have read many times that a warbow that bends in the handle too much will be a slow shooter. And we all know handshock is an issue. But after making 100# draw warbows out of woods which I really shouldn't of, I have come to dislike an elliptical tiller, because:
A ) An even bend, when compared to an elliptical tiller which would bend mostly on the outer - mid limbs and only slightly in the center, is more ideal as far as set is concerned. I used to think the other way, my thinking being that the center is under so much pressure compared to the outer limbs, that I was scared to get it bending much in fear of set. And we all know set in the middle is killer. But what kept happening to my warbows, was that I would end up with set mid limb. I do admit that at the time I was not using osage, but lesser grade woods. That is what I believe anyhow, I still have a horrible habit of tillering longbows elliptically, if you have seen any of my longbows I have posted. I really don't mind it in a longbow, as it reduced handshock a bit, and none of the longbows I make are 32" draw or anywhere close to heavy weight anymore. But for warbows of mulberry or silver maple (which is a horrid wood in compression btw, maybe the worse even. And yes, I've made warbows out of it. Because I am that stupid.), I would just end up with too much set mid - limb. And...
B ) An even bend simply will pull smoother. You can easily claim this is because of string angle. I think that is a simple way to put it. I believe leverage is a factor in there too though. Like the longer a molly's lever is, the smoother the draw, if you catch my drift. Do you know what I'm saying? I wish I could put a elliptically tillered warbow, and an even bending warbow in your hands in real life, and have you draw both to compare.
Anyway, what exactly doesn't make sense to you?
Also:
I've seen your craftsmanship and know you can make a good bow.
Now your definitely full of crap,
.
