TMK, Warbow's don't necessarily have to bend in the handle to the degree you're explaining. The length of the bow decreases the string angle so stack wouldn't be apparent unless the bow were whip tillered to the point of it being poor tiller and design. The longer the bow the more elliptically tillered it would have to be. You're making absolute claims about osage as a warbow that are completely unjustified except for your own experiences. I'd like to see your warbow that gave you these ideas. Also I'll be waiting for that stave. 
I said elliptically tillered, not poorly tillered. Because it is so much fun, I will repeat myself:
"Yes, stack will be apparent in an elliptically tillered (read: slightly whip tillered) warbow. In fact it will be excruciatingly apparent."And like I asked before, how long is this warbow we are talking about? If maryrose length, where stacking would not be as apparent, handshock would be wrist shattering. Ya ever shot a bow that you just hated to shoot? A bow that just hurt to shoot? Where if it were made of a lighter wood such as yew (or mulberry, if ya didn't have no choice, and didn't have no yew like me) handshock could and would easily be acceptable with a comparable bow. And if the bow would be 71" - 73" like I would make it to cut down on the sluggishness of a longer dense bow, if tillered ellliptically, it would
definitely stack to heck and back. Stack is definitely more noticeable in heavier weight bows. And it is more important (to me, I would assume everyone else as well) to have a smooth drawing bow when the draw weight is high.
"TMK, Warbow's don't necessarily have to bend in the handle to the degree you're explaining." "The degree I am explaining" is a warbows normal tiller. If this osage warbow is long enough to draw smooth when elliptically tillered, it will absolutely shoot like a dog (compared to lighter woods). If this osage bow is short enough to make up for the extra outer weight, than an elliptical tiller will cause a very unenjoyable draw stacking at the last 2" to 3" of draw. It will also have more set due to more working being done in the mid and outer limbs opposed to an ideal even bend. If this bow is than tillered properly to reduce stack and set, it will have wrist shattering hand shock. I have made alright heavier "longbows" of osage, but it is a poor choice for a warbow. And I mean "alright", but not ideal by any means. Once again, my only point about all this was that osage is not the best bow wood in all scenarios, not that you cannot make a warbow out of osage. I do agree that design trumps species, but I do not mean that every wood is ideal for every design, and I believe we do in fact have to take species into account with when designing a bow.
"You're making absolute claims about osage as a warbow that are completely unjustified"No I'm not. I'm not doing anything even close to that.
"I'd like to see your warbow that gave you these ideas." Nothing I said is an idea based on one bow, or an idea of my own at all. I don't own any of the early warbows I have made, nor do I even own a warbow at this time. I haven't made a warbow for about a year since popping out my out rib when tillering.
