Thanks guys i think that sums it up. So having read all the posts i would assume to allways go for the maximum draw pull one can achieve through proper tilling, bow design, etc...........etc..........
HANG ON THERE!
In the very much simplified area under the curve analysis the
weight and draw are equally important. The 'Half' which gets multiplied in apples to the whole thing, not just the draw. (It's just half so you are getting the area of the triangle not a whole rectangle)
It just happens that the figures you chose showed more energy at the higher draw because you reduced the poundage by 20% but only increased the draw length by about 10% NOT FAIR
Bottom line is you need to be drawing as far as is comfortable/consistent/practical at a weight which is manageable and controllable.
Just taking one example proves now't.
If you change it to 50# @26" (=650) vs 45# @31"(=697.5) it looks to be round the other way
In fact I'd argue that extra draw is more effective in real terms as the extra inch or so is always at a highest draw weight of the bow, thus the fairer comparison would be.
50# @ 26" vs 50# @ 31" which self evidently gives much more power.
Now having 'proved' that allow me to sell you a set of my excellent "Del the Cat Draw Extenders" for people with short arms
there's a free tube of 'no set' cream with each pourchase .
It also depends what is suiatble for the planned use of the bow, you don't want 40# at 26" for shooting armoured French Knights and you don't want 140# @ 31" for shooting Turkeys.
Now Armoured Turkeys on horseback....?
Del
