Just trying to help out here George. These guys have determination! I don't like to see people get discouraged because of lack of info .That's what makes this site so great. If you don't start with the basics you are going to take a lot longer to learn, if you do at all. Saves a ton of mistakes and takes the mystery out of them when they happen. As for the narrow handles ,they have been around allot longer than you or I, but I know what you mean about that FG look that can be hard to shake if that's what you have always known to be a bow. I personally like my bows to be close to center shot so they are less critical with arrow spine. That way I can change up the weight of the arrow points without drastically altering groups (Broadheads, fieldpoint,blunt etc) Also ,if an arrow breaks just behind the point while stump shooting ,I can still use the arrow at a slightly shorter length and it shoots the same as the longer ones. I started to model the board bows after a 1950's all wood American longbow that I picked up in an antique store and modified to get better performance, thus the narrow shelf cut into the side. I also find it easier to teach newbies how to shoot if they don't have to worry as much about where to place the arrow . I tie a leather lace around the handle with a tag end left long . the tag sticks up just above the index finger and gently holds the arrow without impeding it's release.I always make sure not to cut out more from the side than can be accounted for by extra thickness. Not liking the glued up handles ,personally . Just tried one on an ash 60# 'er and after shooting it in I'm looking at it and wondering how I'm going to gracefully blend the whole thing together so it doesn't look like a FG one ( Bulky at the fades). Also drew up a sketch for rift sawn but my camera died before I could post. I'll add more as well with pics of potential problems that can be read from the grain.
