How's this setup?

[Zion]

So today i decided to rough out one of the thicker OS shoots. I clamped in some reflex which might become a back-set grip and coated the ends heavily in some partially dried up varnish. The result is a very thick, sticky, glue-like substance which i am confident in. I'll post pics of what i did, and if i did anything wrong i would like to know before it's too late. I left the ends in full width so the effect of checking can be removed when i reduce the tips.

[Zion]

The pics:

[Zion]

The sealed ends:

[ionicmuffin]

i dont see why it wont work!

[Bryce]

If you don't seal the exposed wood on the belly it will check all the way to the pith. The entire length of the stave.
Trust me on this.

-Pinecone

[Zion]

 I worked it down to pretty close to the pith. So if i don't seal it now will it check BEYOND the pith, or is it just the pith that checks?

[Bryce]

Doesn't matter how close it is. There's a 98% it's going to check.
Once it gets to the pith it usually stops. But in some cases I've seen it go further.
If you left the handle full width and thickness it WILL check completely through its length.
I'm telling you this bc I want to see this bow full draw
I've made many OS bows and its very very difficult to speed dry w/o mad checks.
Best way I found to dry them fast is somewhat detailed and time consuming to type.
But the 100% sure fire way. Seal the ends throw the stave in a corner, mark on your calendar 6 months to a year from that day and forget about it maybe make a few bows inbetween

-Pinecone

[sharpend60]

I'm with Pinecone on this.

OS is a bugger to dry. If ya get it down to the pith you'll probally be ok.
You can always build up the handle later with wood or rawhide.

Warpage doesnt seem to be a huge deal with OS but I think you are on the right track.

[Weylin]

A friend of mine had a perfect OS stave that was roughed out about the same. it had been drying for about 8 months already with no checks. He pulled it out the other day to show someone his progress and it had a crack the size of the grand canyon running through the handle and way out into the limbs that had formed within the last week. 

[Zion]

Thanks for the advice people, i need it to get this stave through alive. 

After what you said Pinecone i think i'm going to seal the entire bow, but mostly on the belly side, tips, and handle. I want to leave as much on the handle as possible right now so that i am not dedicated to anything when i actually start making the bow, however i will take some material off if it's a recipe for huge splitting. Luckily it's getting really cold and damp lately so i'm not as bad off as i could be.

Would porch sealent (the thin kind that is used to repel moisture) work? Or is it too thin? Would i be better using my tar/varnish, or should i buy a bunch of glue? (I'm out.) Sorry about all the questions but i really don't want this thing to split like all my others   

[ionicmuffin]

i would think getting a bunch of elmers glue or using shelloc would be the best solution

[Bryce]

But a nice coat of Tru oil, shellac or something on the belly and it should be fine. Moisture will exit the wood just not fast enough to make it crack.

- Pinecone

[Zion]

OK, sounds good. I have a bunch of tung-oil, i'll use that.
See ya in 7 months y'all 

[dmenzies1950]

I got a little experiment going with some ocean spray that I harvested about a month ago. I got about 30 or 40 OS staves so I figured that I could afford to take a chance on one. Now Zion, don't do what I did, listen to the experts on ocean spray, like Bryce. Anyway I sawed the belly of the bow down to the heartwood. I shellacked both ends about 4 inches up and the entire exposed belly. I then did what Bryce emphatically told me not to do. I put it in the hot box for about two weeks at about 120 degrees. The belly had cracks all over the place, but believe it or not the back was crackless!
After the hot box I began taking wood off the belly. I did a little floor tillering until I thought I could put it on the tillering board. On the tillering board I worked it slowly until I heard a crack. Oh no! Was I relieved to find that it was only the bark cracking! I had the little bow severely bent for about five minutes while I contemplated the tiller. I was afraid that I probably made it take severe set. Much to my surprise, no set! I haven't put it to the true test yet by stringing it and shooting it but I am encouraged by the result so far.
I promise to keep you posted with my results and pictures.
Anyway Zion don't do it, but Bryce I could not control myself!   

[Guessed]

Rather than start a separate thread I'll ask in this one: should all fresh cut trees/sticks be sealed at the ends? Should I take off the bark or just leave it?

I cut some ash (I think it's ash) the other day, I gave my dad a big 8 foot long section and kept 3 similar pieces for myself.

So, do I just paint the ends or something?