My Koperski Stave

[Fred Arnold]

I had some time yesterday and determined that this bow wood was due a bit of attention. Finally have enough wood removed that it's starting to bend. Only one problem area that I wanted some advice on before proceeding further.

Here's a picture of the knot before and after cleaning it out. I feel like it will need to be plugged and wanted your opinions and advice.

[Pappy]

If it is not a bend in the handle bow ,where that is at shouldn't cause any problem,shouldn't bend there or you will have more problems than the knot.
   Pappy

[Josh B]

Fred, that is coming along quite nicely.  If you are still shooting for 29" of draw, the handle will need to be working.  That means that you will have to plug that hole.  Not a problem. You would be well advised to use a piece of heartwood for your plug as it has a little better compression strength than sapwood.  Also, when cutting your plug to fit, be sure the grain of the plug is running the same direction as the grain of the bow.  Most woods have far better compression resistance than crush resistance.  By crush I mean putting pressure perpendicular to the grain as opposed to pressure in line with the grain.  Make sure that you have as near perfect fit as you can to get the best glue line.  Glue in your plug and lightly clamp in place.  After a couple days remove the clamp, check your glue lines, if all are good continue tillering.  Keep in mind that you will have to be careful working around the repair or you might end up with tear outs.  I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.  Josh 

[Fred Arnold]

It shouldn't bend in the handle but the flaw is at the taper from the fade to bending limb. I think I'd better plug it. Radial or triangular plug. A 1/2" hardwood dowel could be worked in and filed and sanded after curing.

Or I can do a cutout then cut and file a triangular plug close to matching the grain.

I have 2 ton epoxy, MT-13, and Urac 185.

[Josh B]

I think I confused myself.  I was under the impression that this bow was for you or your sons.  I went back and read the whole thread and figured out that this is for your daughter.  So having established that and figuring for a 25" draw as opposed to 29" draw, any plug should do the trick as there is no need for the handle to bend.  Sorry about the confusion, it seems to happen to me more and more as time passes.  I would definitely use a rounded plug as opposed to a triangle shaped one.  Any of those glues will work fine.  Josh 

[Fred Arnold]

Originally intended for a good friends daughter, young Ms. Koperski. But with no more experience than I have, midway through the project it became a bow to get completed. If and when I get this one finished there is a much nicer stave from the other side that I'll dedicate . This is all fairly new to me and I'd prefer to have one under my belt and a little more confidence before designating a bow to Amy. This one is going to have to pull to 28 1/2. If it fails so be it.
I haven't had a lot of time but think I've learned something and it's been rewarding and fun.

[Josh B]

Ok then, that being the case, you will definitely want the handle to bend.  Otherwise you are just asking too much from the wood.  You have put a lot of work into it so far, so why not get the most from it?  With that part working, you will want the grain of the plug to be running in the same direction as the rest of the wood.  When you tiller it save the handle and fades to the last.  When you get the limbs bending evenly out to 25" of draw at your desired draw weight, that's when you start getting first the fades and then the handle itself bending.  The handle is narrower  so it will have to be thicker than the limbs to avoid a hinge there, so take your time.  Also, since the handle is narrower, you have less wood surface to spread out the load, so you don't  want as much bend in the handle as the limbs are bending.  You should just start to feel the handle bend in your bow hand at about 26" of draw.  Josh