2nd bow - this one didn't break! Also, how well do R.O. bows hold up over time?

[TheDeltaFactor]

http://imgur.com/a/OhNmv

red oak, 61" NTN, about 50# at 28"

I used a board I first rejected because the grain ran out towards the ends, but there was enough straight grain to cut out the bow on the diagonal.

On my first bow I added a walnut riser and tip overlays, moose hide handle wrap, and generally took more time to finish it nicely. It broke anyway (I'm pretty sure because I didn't round out the edges of the back sufficiently). This one I kept simple, took the lessons learned from the first one, and I think it turned pretty well. I've got a few hundred arrows through it now, with no sign of any problems.

Now a question - what's the useful life on this thing? Like everybody else, I used red oak because of it's availability, not because it's the greatest bow wood.  Is there a trend towards R.O. bows dying young, or will I be handing it down to my grandchildren if I treat it right?

[H Rhodes]

That's a good looking bow!  That one will be special to you, so don't let some gorilla get hold of it and overdraw it.

  I wish I could answer your question about a red oak's expected life span.  I have only been at this a couple of years, but my first one is still shooting fine.  I bet one of these more experienced guys will chime in shortly with some estimation.  I am curious how they hold up over time, myself. 

[mikekeswick]

The first thing is don't cut your nocks like that! Never touch the back itself at the nock area just cut into the sides. It might be worth putting a wrap on there to stop it failing there or sand flat then glue on an overlay.
You could also round the back edges a little more to eliminate the chances of a splinter lifting.
As to how long it will last...how long is a piece of string?? When well looked after  eg. never overdrawn , kept in a good RH, not stored standing up on one tip etc...a well made wooden bow can last many many years.

[Pappy]

Good looking bow,as Mike said well taken care of wood bows last a long time,I have some 10 + years old still shoot fine.You are pushing the limit a bit with the length for that draw and may take some set over time but if all else is right it shouldn't break.Nice job.
   Pappy

[Eric Krewson]

I would definitely ad an overlay to those nocks to correct the back violation.

[coaster500]

Nice shooter and some good advise above   

[LimbLover]

I'm new to this as well and until recently suffered from the misconception that bows without glass do not last. I felt the same way about wood arrows.

I don't worry about breaking gear anymore, especially when making it is the most fun. I hope I can eventually build one that will last. I've only made three. They shoot, but I know I made mistakes that will effect lifespan.

To me, a broken bow is an opportunity for growth, and to build another, better bow.

At least...that is what I told myself when my latest locust bow failed after working on it for a month.   

[TheDeltaFactor]

I'm surprised by the comments about the nocks. I copied them from pictures of a bow made by one of the well-respected bowyers on the forums. I suspect he may have used overlays of the same wood as the bow, and it looked like he didn't use overlays at all. I'll have to see if I can dig up the picture.

Are the overlays necessary now just because the wood is too thin where the string pulls it? If the issue is back violation, there's nothing I can do about that, except shortening the limbs. I hope that's not necessary.

[Steve Milbocker]

I think what their saying is most pin nocks are flush on the back and not cut in as yours are. They look good though! Perhaps a sinew wrap below the nock would stop any tendency to split.

[Weylin]

doing an overlay is alot easier than it seems. here is a walk through that someone did here on the site. http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,1729.0.html
 I'd recommend giving it a shot on this bow. It will give you piece of mind and it's an opportunity to add something pretty to your bow. (not saying that your bow needs prettying up.  ) I use ebony wood. it looks good, it's super hard and I can get cheap scraps from the local Woodcrafters. Something to think about, anyway. Good luck and nice looking bow, especially for your #2. 

[TheDeltaFactor]

I'm sure I can do a good overlay on these, and that's what I'll probably do. Thanks for the input everybody. 

[SA]

i am working on a siberian/finnic bow and the nocks are cut similarly (violating the back i guess) i had some reserves about doing it that way but if it was good enough for them then....well... i guess it's good enough for me (they seem pretty solid though)   worth a try right,  here are a couple of pics, if it breaks i'll just make another bow.

[Pappy]

I have seen it done several time,most times with no problem,other times big problems, looks good but ant worth the chance for me. sa yours are a little differend,almost like the back is the over lay,with the added support on the belly,at least if I am looking at it right. The sinew rap Steve mentioned would probably take care of it.  Good looking bow non the less.
   Pappy

[PEARL DRUMS]

With a board bow cutting across the back is a whole different bird as quite often the grain isnt flat sawn to start with. Ring seperation is the concern with cutting through the back.

[Denham Archer]

I started making bows in 2006.  My first bow was make from a red oak board.  I'm still shooting it.  I broke the first three bows I tried to make (my own fault - impatient).  But I love red oak.  Made properly, I think red oak can take it's place along side just about any wood.  I have thought about trapping the back also.  The best bow I ever made was a white oak D type.  I built it to a guy's 26 in. draw length.  He let his son who is nine inches taller than him draw it . . . you guessed it - SNAP!