plans for next bow

[david w.]

for my next bow I may make a osage bow with a hickory backing.  It could be my future hunting bow. I am aiming for 50# @28"
Do you think i should do it? I really want to but this would only be my second bow.Is a hickory backing ok on osage or would it weaken the bow,because i think osage is stronger than hickory so i thought it might weaken the bow.  just experienced a riser popping and i definately wouldnt want a backing to so what glue should i use.

how should i thin a peice of hickory because im getting it from murray gaskins and i comes in 1/8 of an inch and i think thats to thick so should i just sand it or should i do something else?

I would be getting the osage from 3riversarchery has anyone bought any wood from them?  are they good peices or junk peices?

[Justin Snyder]

I think your idea is great.  I have never heard of anything that hickory isn't a good backing for.  The backing should be ready to go.  I have bought osage boards from 3 rivers before. Some of it was good, some was trash. I think it is a random chance.  Justin

[david w.]

do you know who a reliable source to get osage from?

[Pat B]

David, Hickory backed osage makes a very good hunting bow. The hickory can be reduced by sanding or even scraping. You can leave it thicker in the handle area(to help stiffen the handle area) and taper each limb to the tips. If you pre-tiller the belly also so it has a nice even  bend to each limb then glue it up with about 3" of Perry reflex you could have an excellent hunting bow.  3Rivers usually has quality stuff but I've never bought wood from them.   Pat

[david w.]

i dont understand pretillering the belly. and how do i glue it up with a reflex?

[david w.]

how thick should the hickory be?

[Pat B]

By pre-tillering I mean taper the limbs(width and thickness) so you can see an even bend in each. You aren't concerned about weight yet. Don't remove wood from the glue joint side. That surface must be clean and flat for glue up.  You can add reflex without pre-tillering the belly and back but most of the reflex bend will be in the handle area and not an even sweep through the limbs.
   What we call Perry reflex is when you glue the back and belly together in reflex. With 3" of reflex added at glue-up you will loose 1" after you remove the clamps and you will loose another 1" or 2" while tillering so you end up with a flat bow profile instead of deflex(theoretically! )
   I would leave the hickory 1/8" at the handle(to help prevent the handle area from bending) and taper the thickness to 1/16" or a tad thicker at the tips.
   The way I do a Perry reflex is to glue the components and clamp the handle area down to my work table and raise the tips and put blocks under them then add the clamps along each limb.  If you use a form to clamp your components to you can get a good even curvature without pre-tillering.
That ought to totally confuse you!   Pat

[david w.]

i think i understand now. it doesn't sound to hard

[possum]

uh-oh.  Famous last words.

Sounds good though.  I'll try that method for inducing reflex though myself.

possum

[david w.]

im excited to start. what glue should i use?

[George Tsoukalas]

David, are you buying an osage board? Jawge

[Pat B]

David, TBIII is what I'm using now. I've used regular TB and TBII also.  Urac is the best but it has to be ordered, costs more and has a limited shelf life. There are other glues also but TB(TiteBond) glues work just fine.   Pat

[Justin Snyder]

David, I have only bought osage boards from 3 Rivers.  I would buy it from them again. If you are getting it from them, you can order your glue there also.  Justin

[david w.]

ok i think i will order it from 3rivers. i have titebond 2, elmers wood glue and epoxy.

im going to dump alot of lawn mowing money on this so i hope it turns out right.