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Author Topic: Hickory backed maple molle - lams & full draw pics added  (Read 9513 times)

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Offline lesken2011

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Hickory backed maple molle - lams & full draw pics added
« on: August 15, 2012, 10:19:42 pm »
I have a hickory backed maple molle I made a couple of months ago....well I got it made to the point of being able to shoot it. I shot it a couple hundred times and notices a couple of crystals in one area of one limb. I was a little disappointed and put the bow up and started on another. For some reason, though, every time I went out to shoot some of the bows I have made, I would grab it and shoot a few through it too. It took a couple inches of set, but shoots so sweet I have to be careful or shoot my nocks off. I decided I want to try to salvage it in spite of the crystals in the limb.


Now for my questions. Since it is backed, what are my chances of heat treating the limbs to help protect them from further damage and the backing staying on? Should I concentrate on the crystaled areas or the entire limbs?


While on the subject of heat treating ....as far as bending goes. I see that some people use a lubricant like cooking oil to aid the even spreading of heat. What happens when you get ready to finish the bow with oil on the limbs?
« Last Edit: August 25, 2012, 02:33:46 pm by lesken2011 »
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Kenny from Mississippi, USA

Offline osage outlaw

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Re: Bending & heat treating
« Reply #1 on: August 15, 2012, 10:37:08 pm »
I used cooking oil to heat bend an osage bow once.  When I tried backing it with sinew later it came loose.  I didn't get the oil out of it good enough.  I had to really scrub it with Dawn and acetone to get it clean enough to allow the sinew to stick to it.  I quit using oil after that and haven't noticed a difference.
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Offline SLIMBOB

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Re: Bending & heat treating
« Reply #2 on: August 15, 2012, 10:49:23 pm »
Kenny, I can't help you on the chrysals.  I'm guessing the glue joint would suffer if not come apart outright, but again that's a guess.  I used epoxy to glue tip overlays on my last bow.  Glued them on once I started tillering, heat treated the belly when I was done and then steamed them loose so I could re-glue.  20 minutes of steaming and they fell off...  As far as the oil on the limbs, Someone may have a better way, but I wash with dawn soap and a scrub brush, set it outside to dry for a day or so and off I go.  I have had to repeat the wash on some a second time.
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Offline Del the cat

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Re: Bending & heat treating
« Reply #3 on: August 16, 2012, 05:21:56 am »
If it's chrysalled, IMO all you will achieve is making them worse...
They go surprisingly deep. I reworked an old 60# Elm ELB into a 30# bow by taking down the chrysalled belly, they went about 4mm deep and I never really got 'em all out.
I think chrysals are natures way of telling you to start another bow ;D and be thankful it just chrysalled and didn't blow >:D.
A chrysalled bow will still shoot but is always going to be a bit puddingy...
Del
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Bending & heat treating
« Reply #4 on: August 16, 2012, 08:40:19 am »
Grind the belly flat and add an osage lam of about .060-.100 thick. Then tiller it RIGHT this time Kenny!
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blackhawk

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Re: Bending & heat treating
« Reply #5 on: August 16, 2012, 09:20:54 am »
Quote from: PEARL DRUMS on August 16, 2012, 08:40:19 am
Grind the belly flat and add an osage lam of about .060-.100 thick. Then tiller it RIGHT this time Kenny!

Ditto

That bellys toast man,only way to fix is doing it the way pearl says. Or just learn from that one and try to make another
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Offline lesken2011

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Re: Bending & heat treating
« Reply #6 on: August 16, 2012, 09:32:19 am »
Thanks for the advice, fellas. The thought had occurred to me about adding a lam, but only as a last resort. Well, I guess it's a good time to learn.  :-\
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For by grace you have been saved through faith, and that not of yourselves; it is the gift of God, not of works, lest anyone should boast.

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Kenny from Mississippi, USA

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Bending & heat treating
« Reply #7 on: August 16, 2012, 09:50:58 am »
Its super easy Kenny. You may find yourself doing it on a few others.....its a great trick to know.
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Offline Youngboyer2(billyf)

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Re: Bending & heat treating
« Reply #8 on: August 16, 2012, 10:19:00 am »
i know that the dean torges patch is meant for hinges, but wouldnt it also fix chrysalls ???
-Billy
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Offline lesken2011

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Re: Bending & heat treating
« Reply #9 on: August 16, 2012, 10:27:41 am »
What tool do you use to "grind" the limbs flat? I don't have an oscillating sander. Do you eyeball it or do you have some sort of jig to keep the limbs even. That thin of a lam doesn't leave much to tiller does it?
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For by grace you have been saved through faith, and that not of yourselves; it is the gift of God, not of works, lest anyone should boast.

Ephesians 2:8-9

Kenny from Mississippi, USA

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Bending & heat treating
« Reply #10 on: August 16, 2012, 10:31:03 am »
Use your ferriers rasp or rasp and keep it dead flat until the edges are square again. The use a fine rasp to clean it up smooth. Glue a strip down and retiller. I suggest TBIII glue
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Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline lesken2011

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Re: Bending & heat treating
« Reply #11 on: August 16, 2012, 10:34:11 am »
Those tools I have. Thanks PD. I'll post some pics when I'm done.
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For by grace you have been saved through faith, and that not of yourselves; it is the gift of God, not of works, lest anyone should boast.

Ephesians 2:8-9

Kenny from Mississippi, USA

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Bending & heat treating
« Reply #12 on: August 16, 2012, 10:49:54 am »
Get thise fades working a little harder this time. I have only built one molly, but I know the WHOLE working limb needs to move evenly to keep it together and effeicent.
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Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline lesken2011

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Re: Bending & heat treating
« Reply #13 on: August 16, 2012, 11:12:13 am »
I think I built this one a little narrow for white wood. 1.5" when it probably should have been more like 2" which probably resulted in the 2" or so of set and the crysals. I am working on a white oak one right now that is more of a trapezoidal style with 2" width at the handle fades down to 1.5" width at the lever fades. Most of the crystals on the first one were near the handle which was cut to the same thickness. I hope this gives me more room for error on this one.
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For by grace you have been saved through faith, and that not of yourselves; it is the gift of God, not of works, lest anyone should boast.

Ephesians 2:8-9

Kenny from Mississippi, USA

Offline half eye

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Re: Bending & heat treating
« Reply #14 on: August 16, 2012, 11:15:23 am »
Kenny, I got a pair of osage lam's that are allready milled flat and ready to go.....if ya want to try and save the first one also.....ya got my email, bud
rich
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