warbow length ?

[Josh B]

Alrighty gents,  this is completely uncharted territory for me.  I just scored a Pacific yew stave, 60+rpi 69" long x 2" x 2" that's been seasoning since the 1920's.  I really don't want to screw this  up.  Would it be feasible or advisable to make an 85# @ 31 1/2" ewb from this short of a stave? It has 1/4" sapwood and a pristine knotfree back. Actually I don't see a knot anywhere on it. Is this doable or should I wait for a longer stave?  Like I said, I really don't want to screw it up!  Josh

[RyanY]

On that ERC bow I made I was going for around that draw weight and length but chickened out at 30" draw and just rounded down to the 80#@29". I think that yew could definitely get there with a good piece of wood. I also made a hickory warbow that was under 72" ntn and 120#@32" which is pushing it as well.  I think shorter heavy draw weight bows can be made but they'll want to take more set.

[adb]

If the stave is 69" now, you're going to lose 2" for nocks... so that leaves you with 67". A bit short for 80+ # @ 30+". Definitely make it a bendy handle bow, with a full circular tiller, getting as much limb working as possible. Once you start tillering it, the stave will let you know how far it wants to go. If it starts taking set, stop. Like you said, it sounds like too good a stave to ruin.

[Del the cat]

I agree with what's been said, except you don't need to loose as much as 2" for nocks.
With ELBs they are so narrow and you don't want to cut into the back so I glue on a temporary tip overlay and cut a nock into that (might need an extra nock for a stringer on one end), but they can be as close to the tip as you dare (1/2 " -1/4").
A good trick for when you want to put the horn nocks on :- Stick some masking tpe on the back of the bow and make a pencil mark 6" from the temporary nock. When the tip is rasped to a point and the horn stuck on you can then measure back 6" from your pencil mark and be right back spot on where you were .

I think it is a bit short for 32" draw, (I'd go for 72-74" but obviously you can't stretch a stave ) but I'll bet that most people claiming 32" draw don't get there. A heavy bow compresses the arms and shoulders so much, on the 90# I built 28" looked pretty much like a full medieval draw.
Del

[Josh B]

Thank you for the replies gentlemen.  I shall defer to your superior knowledge on the subject and not risk this stave.  I have several ERC staves that would serve better in this application.  Ryan, your bow lit the warbow fire in me , so I blame you! if mine turns out half as nice, I will be tickled!  Thanks again,  Josh

[RyanY]

I'm glad to hear my bow could offer a little inspiration. I forgot that a little length might be lost depending on how you do your nocks. I still think it's possible but definitely not worth risking a beautiful stave. Can't wait to see how the ERC one comes out. I'm sure it'll be a beauty.

[blackhawk]

Sounds like a good candidate for a heavy hunting weight american style longbow. Like around 80@28".

I wonder if it was a earl ullrich cut stave? Do you know who cut it or anymore of its history as to how such a stave is still a stave and not a bow?

[kiwijim]

I have to agree with Blackhawk. That stave has the perfect dimensions for an American Flat bow. This will allow you take advantage of it's ample width and short length. It is not so ideal for a high draw weight warbow or ELB due to it's shortness. I'm not saying it can't be done, but it may pay to consider a bow design more suited to such a precious stave.

James

[Josh B]

Thanks fellas!  I'm thinking along the same lines as far as ALB go.  But I believe I will keep it at about 65# so I can actually hit something with it.  I actually got 3 staves in the deal.  All are fine ringed, but two of them have side checks and are a couple inches shorter.  I believe i can get an 1 1/4" handle width and about 66" ntn.  Is that enough for a hunting weight elb?  I don't know didly about yew or elb's .  Thanks for any and all advice.

Blackhawk, I wish I did know more about the history of these staves.  The guy I got them from only knew that they belonged to his great grandfather and from what his memory told him, when they were harvested or there abouts.  I wish i knew more as well.   Josh

[bow-toxo]

   Would it be feasible or advisable to make an 85# @ 31 1/2" ewb from this short of a stave? It has 1/4" sapwood and a pristine knotfree back. Actually I don't see a knot anywhere on it. Is this doable or should I wait for a longer stave?  Josh

Your stave is too short for what you want to make. My preference is for replica mediaeval bows. For this you would have to content yourself with a shorter arrow. One mediaeval law calls for a bow of the archer’s height and a 27” ARROW.  Your shorter yew staves would be perfect for a mediaeval smallbow, such as was used in hunting, and even sometimes in war. For this, you would have to content yourself with a 26 ½ “ arrow, and the bow could be as short as double the arrow length between nocks. This because the bow is thinner for the same draw weight and will take more of a bend.  These would be fine for hunting with draw weight of 50 to 80 pounds. You don’t want warbow weights for hunting. Wait for the right stave for your warbow.

[Josh B]

Thank you for the info. Bow Toxo.  It is appreciated.  I've never been so worried about messing up a stave as I am about this one.  I want to be sure and do it right.  Thanks again, Josh

[Badger]

  I just finished up an 85# at 28" 66" NTN stiff handled yew bow. With a bendy handle I think the bow could go 32" at 80#. I have a big knot in my limb or would have gone further with it.

[Josh B]

Did you post that baby Steve?  I would love to check that out.  The truth is I have no idea wwhat my warbow draw length would be.  I am only guessing at the 31 1/2".  That guess did not factor in body compression as Del mentioned.  I am also wanting to meet EWBS requirements in all aspects.  Not that I have any intention of flying to Europe to compete with it, just a silly self indulgence I guess.  I recently tried looking up the regs on their site, but had no luck.  If you guys in the know of such things would share a bit of that, it would be greatly appreciated.  Any minimum requirements as far as bow length, length of draw, arrow weight or whatever else applicable would be very helpful.  The main interest in warbows stems from my Grandpa.  Everytime I show him a new bow, he chuckles and says our ancestors would laugh at such a light bow.  He has told me that more than one of my ancestors were longbow men.  I wish I could trace that back.  That kind of history fascinates me.  Anyway, thank you for the input,  Josh

[peasant1381]

All the EWBS arrow specs are under the Articles banner on the website home page. If you make up some arrows exactly to those specs you will be shooting the same arrows as archers in the UK, Norway, France, Netherlands, Germany, Australia, Canada and New Zealand - sorry if I've missed anybody. By comparing results you can see how you're progressing.

[adb]

Warbows are a bit different than target bows in terms of draw length. Most target shooters have a very well defined and specific anchor point, which they draw to for every shot. This acts much like the rear sight on a rifle. Then, it's all about target focus and a smooth release.
Shooting warbows is pure flight shooting, but with heavy arrows. The draw length is determined by the arrow length. You want maximum transfer of energy to the arrow, and one major factor determining this is the amount of time the string is acting on the arrow to force it forward (ie., draw length). Another major factor, of course, would be draw weight.
So, there is no specific anchor point... only a maximizing of the thrust by drawing the arrow as far back as possible. 'Draw the arrow to the head'...
The EWBS has minimum shaft lengths, mostly between 30-32", which is a close replica of medieval period war arrows.