I've had a good bet to do and I've been on other posts here lately. Iowa, you've did a good job. Heres a couple things that will help you out with dog wood.
I've been makesing shooting dog woods for 15 years. And are by far the best I have around here.
(1) Cut your shoots leave the bark on and straighten really good first time then bundle. Let them season a few months. The way you've did it, will work (Green). But you find out untill the season a few months you have to keep restraighting them.
Not saying this is the right or only way but it's the best and quickest ways I've found. And when it comes to building shoot arrows. You might not be worry about the time it takes starting out. But I'd bet the next set of arrows you build you'll be looking for short cuts.
I cut, leave the bark on, straighten green really well,bundle let season. I cut might in the winter and season to the next. But you can start alot sooner. I have made them in 2 months. But like most shoots the longer they season the better.
You've already straighten really good once. Your teaching them MENORY. The longer there bundled and seasoning the more menory they have. I may not seam like much now. But after your finished you want the shaft to stay straight.
When I deside to make arrows. Debark, I use a thumb plain. Now before I start sanding I straighten with hands ,knees ,holes in table (1/2) I have many straighters different distances between straighters for different lenth beens. You figger that out as you buld a few arrows.
This way any straighting marks (dints)you leave can be sanded out when you sand. Also if I have to use any hea tto help on straighting or getting ride of MEMORY. I do now, also you have enough wood to sand to get rid of the burn marks. Also with dog wood like most shoots you don't have to heat so hot that you get at black scorch marks. As soon as you see it discolor it's hot enough.
When you heat to you have scorce marks just like heating staves, you changeing wood cells. If you have a finished arrow. You look at your arrow and it has a been. I'll bet its at a scorce mark.
Heat slow and don't scorch.
Any shoot no matter how crooked if you want and have the time can be straighten it. But theres a couple things to look for in a shoot. I talked of memory that means a lot when it comes to your shoots(arrows) staying straight when finished.
I only use the butt secion of the bush. ( from ground up) It's growing straight up to the sun unlike limbs the have that curve toward the ground from the weight of limbs and leaves.. Of course you can remove it with heat. Just on more step(time) your can bypass. It takes time. Also this butt secion this far less little limbs coming into it. L;imbs mean crooked spots. And your shoots have a lot evener arrow spine. This means they all come off the bow the same.
This just some ways of saveing time and helping to keep your arrow to stay straighter longer when your arrows finished.
You know the old saying any old peice of wood will shoot a good arrow.
THE BEST BOW IN THE WOULD WON'T SHOOT A SUCKIE ARROW.
Another saying
IT TAKES LONGER AND IT'S HARDER TO BUILD A GOOD ARROW THAN IT IS A BOW.
Did mean to steel your post.
Just saw a couple things that will save you some time and griff on your next arrow.