Hickory Backed Massaranduba Build Along and help

[DarkSoul]

The hickory board isn't too bad, but I certainly won't use it for a warbow. It's the midlimb-to-be area that bothers me most, the transition from heartwood to sapwood has about eight run offs short after one another. If this were in the handle, or near the tip, you could be fine, but it's risky in the midlimb. I wouldn't dare giving you a maximum safe heaviest weight, simply because wood isn't that predictable (unfortunately). You may just get away with a 100# bow, but I would not feel comfortable with that grain for anything over 50 pounds.

[Will Carothers]

i understand, i think the person whose tools i use would be willing to trade this board for a pecan or hickory he may have, if he has one with straighter grain.

here is my last ditch effort, what if i cut to these lines



Even though it would end short of the board, i would still have 78 inches of rectangle board, and on this section drawn out there are barely any runnouts. I don't know if this would work, but i think it is similar to what is mentioned is mentioned in TBB V2 in bows from boards, about how to true a board to the trees original surface.

[}|{opukc]

I would have risked it with grain. I will make two lams(1/8")for back and I will stick them in this way.



George

[DarkSoul]

here is my last ditch effort, what if i cut to these lines

Even though it would end short of the board, i would still have 78 inches of rectangle board, and on this section drawn out there are barely any runnouts.

Wrong! You may be cutting along the rings (not grain) in one dimension, but the grain is still not straight in the other dimension. It's hard to explain in words, but you have to visualize the board was cut from a round log that would create such rings. There is no possible way it could be cut by giving you those V-shaped run offs in the centre of the board, while the edges would have straight grain. My bet is that you can see the run offs on the SIDES on that board even better. Surface those edges to see what I mean.
No way you can cut a straight grained piece out of that board unless you can chase a ring (but there's probably too many run offs in that board to leave you enough thickness after chasing a ring).

[Ian.]

I would be surprised if the Hickory failed, I have seen much worse survive just fine.

[Will Carothers]

Thank you Ian, ha ha, i mean i haven't use hickory in heavier bows than 60# yet, but ive used horrible looking hickory and its made it, but i don't know

[Ian.]

I have seen a very well know bowyers attempt a single growth ring Hickory back and leave ring violations up the entire length of the bow and that bow survived and is shooting today. I have used Hickory on heavy bows (well over 100lb) that have had knots and run off's, all stiff going strong.

Yes it may break, buts isn't it worth a go? 

[Will Carothers]

I think ill go for it, but maybe make it 78" instead of 74", and what do all of you think of massaranduba as a belly wood, and my plan on tapering a core

[okie64]

A couple of years ago I made a couple of hickory backed massarandubas and they are great shooters, one of them is 50# and the other is 65 or 70#( cant remember for sure). Massaranduba is a great belly wood and pretty similar to ipe as far as compression strength and workability.

[Will Carothers]

i just thought of a solution to the backing question, i had bought some ash at the same time but that was going to be for arrows, but the grain along the sides is really straight, and im almost positive i could chase a ring on it, what about this kind of backing, the grain on the face is pretty straight too, but i would think a chased ring would maybe give me some more assurance, another problem with the hickory though, it is warped into reflex, so im not sure how i would even cut backing strips if i wanted. I'm thinking a bandsaw may work because of the smaller blade, but im not sure?