Snakeskin and the order of things

[brian_restivo]

Hey guys, thanks for all the time you all spend helping others. Although this is my first question I've posted, this site has been instramental in my new found passion. Thanks.

My question involves the snakeskins and when to apply them, before or after staining. From what I've read it seems like some people stain the backs first to show (somewhat) through the skin. What about glue runoff though?? Do you sand the glue of the sides or wait to stain??

Also, I'm not sure on removing the scales. My praire rattler skins have small scales spaced out a bit. I've tried pulling a couple off on parts of the skin that will be trimmed off and it was rather unsightly. It left a ruff white patch where the scale was. Is it acceptable to leave small scales on?? Or am I missing something??

B

[Justin Snyder]

If you are using a light colored wood, it is best to use a dark stain on the wood first.  This stops the pattern on the skin from fading out as bad.   At least that is what I have heard.  This link to Mickey Lotz is well worth reading.  http://groups.msn.com/ferretsarcherywebpage/snakeskinbacking.msnw    Justin

[brian_restivo]

Thanks Justin!!   There is all kinds of good stuff on that site.

b

[Pat B]

I have added snake skins to a few bows and never colored the back or the bow first. In most cases with thin skins like western or prairie rattlers the color of the bow wood does shine through but I don't find it unattractive.     Pat

[Pappy]

Some I just put on with nothing under it,and I have done some lately with a black permanent
marker and will really make the pattern stand out,either way looks good to me.As far as the scales don't try and pull them off,I rub them with a rag in the way they lay before gluing them down
to get most of them off and then after the glue is dry I will rub them again the way they lay and it will get them off.Sometimes I use 000 steel wool just don't bear down to hard.Then I just seal right over them,each time the sealer dries I will rub them lightly in the direction they go once and seal again after several coats they will be smooth as silk.Some folks put them on the edge also
but I just glue them on the top and trim off the sides and clean up the glue that ran down the edges.Hope this helps. You can glue them down with Elmer's wood glue or Tite Bond 1/2/3
I would suggest if it is your first try, use Elmer's or TB1 it give you more time to make sure the pattern is down the middle and to be sure you get all the air bubbles out.I then rap starting at the handle  wit ace bandage keeping it tight and straight as you go.Another set of hands helps but you can do it on your own ,just take your time and keep it straight with no wrinkle's.Good luck.
One more thing you need to wet them first to make them limber.
   Pappy

[Beleg813]

Does it matter if the snakeskin is tanned or does it have to be "dried" only?

[DanaM]

I believe in TBB Vol 1 Chapter 11 pg 243-244 Other Backings that Paul Comstock says tanned skins can be used but glyercin
treated skins wouldn't work because glue wouldn't stick to them.

[Justin Snyder]

Does it matter if the snakeskin is tanned or does it have to be "dried" only?

You can use them dried or green. They can be rolled up and frozen.  If you stretch them out and dry them the scales are farther apart.  You need to use two dried or two green if you want them to match good.  Justin

[Coo-wah-chobee]

                Whose Paul Comstock ? Btw glycerine skins do work  ..................bob

[DanaM]

How do you get the glycerin out bob? Acetone?

Paul carries a bent stick

[stiknstring]

WHO IS PAUL COMSTOCK?  OMG....You may as well also ask who Tim Baker or Jim Hamm are.....

Okay enough of that... Paul Comstock wrote "The Bent Stick" a great manual on bowbuilding available through Horsefeathers Ranch

I have it and reread it often....pretty tattered up paperback now but its still holding together....thanks to duct tape and contact cement.

[Coo-wah-chobee]

          Ok who is Tim Baker and Jim Hamm ? Never heard of Paul Comstock ! ..........bob

[stiknstring]

Ignorance is bliss eh.....

[Pat B]

Bob, Jim Hamm wrote books about Native American bows. Tim Baker did research on just about every kind of wood as far as bow building and Paul Comstock wrote "The Bent Stick" about building bows with white woods.
   I have used one snake skin that was tanned with antifreeze(glycerin) but it had been tanned 20 years earlier. I would rather use green skins or dried skins for bow backings. I have used chrome tanned snake skins for backing but I found that tanned skins acted like a sponge when moisture was a problem.
   Stiknstring, just because someone hasn't heard about these guys doesn't make them ignorant. Actually Bob was building bows long before these guys ever made a name for themselves. That would make him quite intelligent as far as a bowyer. He learned the ancient ways, from his ancestors.       Pat

[stiknstring]

Just thought that he was being SARCASTIC so I was being sarcastic right back....my apologies if he really has not heard of these notables. I assumed, and maybe wrongly so, that he had been in the game and on these sites long enough to probably even PERSONALLY know these guys. So again I thought he was being sarcastic...so returned the favor...my bad. I thought the old smiley face would translate well. I guess you just cannot kid with some people.