In reference to splicing billets (Pics and questions)

[Eric Krewson]

I always try to leave the spliced section at least 1" thick back to belly. This way any wood I add to the handle to build it up is very unlikely to pop off. I add handle wood to every spliced set of billets I put together. One reason is to add reinforcement to the splice, the other is to have enough wood for my distinctive bulbous, locater grip handles.

My stock of billets is made up of a lot of random pieces. Often one billet of a matched set has enough wood on it for a complete handle but the other does not. I like them to match in dimensions when I splice so I bring the larger piece down to the size of the smaller piece.

[Fred Arnold]

I decided to do a trial run with my bandsaw on a set of mulberry billets I had in the shop. I ended up with 5 sets of these this early Spring when cutting down some dead and storm damaged trees.
This pair is the shortest and ended up 54 1/2" after the splice.

Thanks for the input Eric. I ended up using the 3 3/4" on these because they are already short  for my draw length. Hopefully if I flip the tips and  don't lose all the reflex I'll be able to pull it to 27 and get close to 45#.

This will get sinew back because of some knots in the working section and I'll try my skill at a slight bend in the handle.

Any suggestions on limb design?? I'm new to this and don't know whether it's best to leave the belly flat or crowned. This was a large tree so no noticeable crown on the back.  Also the rings are close on this wood, less than 1/8" average and the wood seems awful dry.

Both limbs are twisted starting 15" from the tips but the handle, fades and beginning of the working section of the limbs are flat and look fine. Being they are sister billets they will both need about the same amount of straightening and torque.