Cork handle build up

[lesken2011]

I am wrapping up my #2 trade bow and want to round off the handle a little. I don't think I am getting much bend in the handle, if any since it's osage, but don't want to take the chance of a piece of wood popping off. I know I could use leather or rawhide, but am running out of time and think the cork would be quicker and maybe have a more pleasant feel. I have some cork from an old bulletin board that I can use. The cork material is over 1/4" thick. I should be able to glue 2 pieces together and  1 for the back of the bow should give me a nice round handle. Since I have never worked with cork, what would be the best tool for shaping (knife, rasp, etc) and once it is shaped,  how do I seal it before I put on the handle. Won't it come apart if it gets wet?

[coaster500]

Cork should make a nice grip and help with energy not used up by and arrow... a shock absorber so to speak

 Rough cut your shape with a razor then maybe experiment with different grits of sand paper wrapped around a block or a file???

[DarkSoul]

Cork is soft and easy to shape. A file and course sandpaper work just fine. You could stabilize the cork using super glue. Soak it in superglue and let it dry. The cork has changed structure now, and will be much harder and easier to file into intricate detail. It won't give you that soft cork-feel anymore, but it makes the cork waterproof and prevents chipping along the edges.

[gstoneberg]

Yea, I use cork all the time.  The only challenging thing is keeping it from tearing out as you sand it.  The best tool for shaping it is the spindle sander with pretty fine grit sandpaper.  The more course the tool, the greater the possibility it'll catch and tear out cork.  Never sand into a glue joint (where the material after the joint is higher than the joint) with either hand or power tools.  Like coaster, I use a new blade on a box cutter to rough shape, then on to the spindle sander.  I finish with a sanding block and 150 grit sandpaper.  I have used files, but it's very hard to keep from tearing up the cork with files and rasps unless they are very fine.

One other thing.  If you have trouble keeping the cork from tearing when you're cutting the pieces to glue to your bow, you are going to have trouble shaping it.  I bought a 1/4th inch thick cork 12" tile once, it was just too crumbly to use on a bow handle.  What I now use is  1/8th inch cork I bought at a craft store off a roll.  It is much finer grained and easier to work.  I do have to glue several layers up most of the time.

I've used both TB3 and super glue gel on the cork and both work well.  The glue joints are much harder than the cork.  I like the soft feel of cork so I don't fill it with super glue.  I've never sealed a cork handle and to my knowledge have never had one come off.

Good luck,
George

[lesken2011]

Thanks for the replies, guys. Since I didn't have time for a learning curve, I took a chance and glued a very short piece of poplar to the belly and back of the handle and rounded them off. Then I shot it about a dozen times and no handle pop off. I didn't think it was bending. I will probably try some cork next time when I have more time. I appreciate the feedback.

[RobWiden]

    Kenny, I've used cork quite a bit lately, and I love it. It glues on easily, easy to shape with a palm sander using 120 grit paper, and I just use satin poly finish. I can't tell you how it holds up, all the bows I've used it on are since Christmas, but I can't see why there should be a problem. As someone mentioned, it cushions the handle but I think just having the handle shaped to your hand is the most important part of that.

[gstoneberg]

I should have added that all my cork grips are covered with leather.

George

[lesken2011]

Just out of curiosity, how do you buy your cork? I have seen very thin sheets at craft stores, bulletin boards have somewhat thicker, I know some floor coverings and back splashes use cork. I'm just looking for the most inexpensive source.

[bobnewboy]

In the past I have used cheap cork placemats and/or coasters from stack-it-high-sell-it-quick places.  The mats/coasters seem to be available in a variety of thicknesses, and the last I bought for, ahem, unexpected purposes were about a half inch thick.  Here in the UK they have been available in places like Wilkinsons and other big chain stores with houseware departments, and I guess you have equivalent stores on your side of the pond.

[gstoneberg]

By the way, if you're just building up a bow handle's bulk and worried about the grip bending, you can also use thin strips of wood that you laminate up to get the thickness.  Thin strips will bend with the bow if made to but normally add enough strength that the bow will not bend there anymore.

In my cork experience, the thicker the cork the more likely it is to tear out as you work it.  Consequently I prefer to laminate several thinner pieces to get the thickness I need.  The glue lines stabilize the cork and minimize any tear-outs.  I think I bought my roll of cork at a Hobby Lobby store.

George

[lesken2011]

How thick can you go with the wood lams for handle build ups?


Also what glue do you use for the wood and cork?

[George Tsoukalas]

Cork wil work. I don't remember ever using it. I have used foot pads, carpet foam, pieces of leather etc. But my preference s usually nothing. BTW my present bow is an osage bow that bends in the handle because  tillered it that way. Jawge

[gstoneberg]

I don't like to go over an eighth inch thick, but I would think as long as the laminations will bend at the thickness you have, they would work.  As for glue with wood to wood it depends on the surfaces.  If I have a real good mate, I use TB3.  If not, I use smooth-on epoxy.  For cork to wood I use TB3 or contact cement, preferring the contact cement.  I have also used gel super glue with both cork to wood and cork to cork.  If I have time I almost always use TB3 to laminate the cork layers together.  I clamp them for an hour or 2 and then unclamp and leave over night.  More times than not though, I'm laminating right before installation, and the contact cement is perfect in that situation. 

Hey Jawge, did you build up your bendy handle or just shoot it thin?  I left my last one thin and I still can't decide if I like it or not.  Sure feels weird to shoot.

George