Tuning Step by Step (Corrections wanted)(Better info in Italics)

[kevinnator11]

I'm by far no expert and I've been reading and searching and constantly learning.  Right now the following are my steps.  Please correct me if in any way I'm wrong with one of my steps.

1. Cut them down to a couple of inches longer than draw.  So you can cut down later if need be.

2. Check the grain.  Horizontal grains(in relations to horizon) will be stiffest area and will go towards the bow.  This is fine if you are using glue on plastic nocks.  If you are cutting self nocks try to cut across the grains.  This helps keep from splitting the shaft.  If you go somewhat diagonally you can get the spine further towards the bow and lessen the chance of splitting.(Modified per advice below)

3. Match the spine with a known good arrow by sanding it down until it flexes on a spine tester the same.  2 nails 26” apart works if you have a known good one and try to get the others to flex the same using a two pound weight in the center.  Using that method I wouldn’t think that the weight has to be precise.

4.  Check the weight of the two and see if they match.  Try to sand until you get close.  If you make adjustments I adjust lenght.  See #7.

5.  Find center of the shaft and place it on a pivot.  Can be a nail or something.  The heavier end make the front.

6.  Taper the point and nock.  Or cut self nock.  Make sure nock on string put’s the spine towards the bow.

7.  Tune by standing ten feet away with a target that is level with your arrow.  If nock leans to the left the shaft is light for your bow.  If it is right it’s too stiff.  This can be adjusted by changing point weight.  Heavier point lightens the spine.  You can also adjust length to get this right for the bow.  Shorten to stiffen the spine.

8.  If the nock is up in relations to the point then you need to adjust your nocking point lower.  Low go up with the nocking point.

9. Fletch away.

Hope all of this is right and look forward to corrections as I'm about to make up another batch.

[JW_Halverson]

2. Check the grain.  Vertical will be stiffest area and will go towards the bow.


5.  Find center of the shaft and place it on a pivot.  Can be a nail or something.  The heavier end make the front.

6.  Taper the point and nock.  Or cut self nock.  Make sure nock on string put’s the spine towards the bow.

#2, 6  I've always been told that the spine of the arrow is stiffest when the grain of the shaft is horizontal, or parallel with the horizon.  This is also important with it comes time to add self nocks.  When you cut a nock in an arrow that is parallel to the grain it increases the chances of splitting along the grain.

#5   Never thought of doing that.  Huh.  So simple, so helpful, so obvious in hindsight!

And for giggles, save back one of the arrow shafts once it is spine tuned to the bow perfectly. Shoot it from time to time.  Unfletched shafts will reveal any flaws in your release immediately.  Not that any of us ever have any problems with our release, right?

[kevinnator11]

#2, 6  I've always been told that the spine of the arrow is stiffest when the grain of the shaft is horizontal, or parallel with the horizon.  This is also important with it comes time to add self nocks.  When you cut a nock in an arrow that is parallel to the grain it increases the chances of splitting along the grain.

#5   Never thought of doing that.  Huh.  So simple, so helpful, so obvious in hindsight!

And for giggles, save back one of the arrow shafts once it is spine tuned to the bow perfectly. Shoot it from time to time.  Unfletched shafts will reveal any flaws in your release immediately.  Not that any of us ever have any problems with our release, right?

Not me my release is always bad! I'm still working on shooting.  Just got started with all this around March. 

Ok I always get the dyslexic with the spine.  Had to renock one batch cause i got it wrong and I try to keep that one arrow always but it sure is tempting to shoot it sometimes since I know I can depend on it.  Thanks for the input.

[RBLusthaus]

Your number 5 - I too never thought of that.  But, when you think about it, it does not matter that much as any point you put on the arrow will make it front heavy anyway.  I usually look for any swirly grain and put that end at the nock end (if using plastic nocks) and at the  point end if making self nocks. 

Russ

[kevinnator11]

Your number 5 - I too never thought of that.  But, when you think about it, it does not matter that much as any point you put on the arrow will make it front heavy anyway.  I usually look for any swirly grain and put that end at the nock end (if using plastic nocks) and at the  point end if making self nocks. 

Russ

I try to make sure I've got a good grain board to start and then cut my blanks.  The dowel cutter leaves them a little bigger in diameter so using plastic nocks I have to shape both ends to 11/32 cause that's what I use.  I usually spin them in a drill and hold sandpaper in my hand to try to get a smooth taper down.  Backyard bowyer yes sir!  Sometimes I get a little off and one ends heavier.  I'm gonna need to come up with something to get them from 3/8 down to 11/32 the length of the shaft.

I wouldn't want half an arrow sticking out of my hand either though so I'll keep that in mind. 

[crooketarrow]

  Try releaseing with the third finger down first. The other 2 naturally have to follow suit. No plucking the string. no staping your fingers open. Your fingers have to leave the string the same everytime. I'd like to take creit for this but HOWARD HILL beat me to it. I shot this way for 30 some years.
  You perrty much nail the tuneing. But I cut my knocks across the gain to elimanate splits. I put the sriff part as close to the bow as I can get it. But I make 1000's of arrows never had one break from this. Much more important to cut your knocks across the gain.

[RBLusthaus]

To go from 3/8 to 11/32 you might try burnishing them.  Use your drill and spin them thru a 11/32 hole in a piece of hardwood (oak or hickory).  Compresses them to nice a hard sheen.  The hardwood block wallows out quickly, so keep your caliper handy.

Russ

[kevinnator11]

To go from 3/8 to 11/32 you might try burnishing them.  Use your drill and spin them thru a 11/32 hole in a piece of hardwood (oak or hickory).  Compresses them to nice a hard sheen.  The hardwood block wallows out quickly, so keep your caliper handy.

Russ

Good tip.  I'll give that a shot.  Got plenty of scrap hardwood.  Bout every other bow I get some more

  Try releaseing with the third finger down first. The other 2 naturally have to follow suit. No plucking the string. no staping your fingers open. Your fingers have to leave the string the same everytime. I'd like to take creit for this but HOWARD HILL beat me to it. I shot this way for 30 some years.
  You perrty much nail the tuneing. But I cut my knocks across the gain to elimanate splits. I put the sriff part as close to the bow as I can get it. But I make 1000's of arrows never had one break from this. Much more important to cut your knocks across the gain.

.

I will give that a shot.  Nobody around to "mentor" me so I'm learning by myself.  Get a pretty good grouping from 15 yds and I've noticed when my release isn't smooth the difference.  Still trying to go through a mental checklist each shot.  I'll add the third finger and try it.  Thanks