I thought I’d post this bow because I wondered whether anyone's had had any experience with rowan or mountain ash (sorbus aucuparia) as a warbow wood. It’s not related to ash but the leaves have a cursory resemblance to each another. This was the first bow I’ve made from this wood so I made it with a Mary Rose type section of the deeper type as a reference, against my better judgment, and was surprised with the results. The bow’s belly was heat-treated but not malmed or resin impregnated and no reflex was introduced. The stave already had an elegant natural recurve on one limb. The stave was seasoned with the bark off for 2 months in a shed and 6 in an unheated indoor room and the stave was cut in the late Autumn last year. I did seal the back and ends with beeswax but it had no drying checks anywhere. The wood's a joy to work and peels off like cheddar cheese on a grater. At 25” it refused to take any set whatsoever and didn’t at 30” but did crysle on every single minor pin. Despite taking Ascham’s advice about pricking out either side of the ‘freet’ these propagated to the point that I’ve retired the bow after less than 50 shots. I’m intrigued because, with the correct section, I think the wood has potential for a warbow as it’s quite fast.
This is the stave with the natural reflex. Wouldn’t it be nice if they grew like this with at both ends 78” apart. That would be a good use of genetically modified plants!
This is the bows x section at the arrow pass. As you can see, it was from quite a small diameter stave but none of the bow has any pith line in it, just. The belly is at the top.
Even after the bow was shot it went back to the position in the stave, more or less.
The bow was quite simple to tiller, once it was braced that is, as the reflex made it tricky.
This is a close-up of the recurved limb with horn sidenocks fitted and a hemp string. The bow was finished with boiled linseed oil and a bees wax/turpentine rubbing paste.
The same limb braced. The tips were just under 1/2" in diameter at the base of the horn.
This gives you the idea of the section down the bow, roughly the same as the arrowpass.
This is my good friend Al drawing up a
Mary Rose livery (meaning military issue) pattern arrow at our recent Warbow Wales shoot. The tiller is full compass and the recurve is apparent. I chose to place it on the lower limb because of the advice of French medieval manuscript,
Lartdarcherie. The bow was nice and fast which was pleasing. I think the dramatic sky behind is beautiful.
That's the good news. This is the bad...
Even though the back was slightly raised on the other side of this pin it still couldn't take the compression.
Even on the side of the bow the wood's struggled to cope.
Notes to self about rowan as a bow wood...
1. Only use a very clean stave
2. Go for a flatter and wider section next time like that of the Mary Rose bow in Cardiff Museum.
