Author Topic: red oak mollegabet bow question  (Read 16887 times)

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Offline Ifrit617

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Re: red oak mollegabet bow question
« Reply #15 on: April 06, 2012, 02:11:13 pm »
On mine I have static limbs tapering from 3/4 to 1/2 inch wide and the same dimensions for the thickness. Plenty strong... With static limbs the size you have now you are severely limiting the effectiveness of this design.

Jon

Offline randman

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Re: red oak mollegabet bow question
« Reply #16 on: April 06, 2012, 11:35:11 pm »
Once you get the bending part of the limb thin enough to actually bend, you'll be surprised how much you can remove from the static parts and have them still remain stiff. You have a ways to go in the thickness of the bending limb since you have such a wide limb. I'm just guessing but it'll probably be about 1/4" to 5/16" thick by the time it's bending good. I got one out of quarter sawn hickory I'm working on and it is 3/8" thick an still not bending much yet. And It's only 2 1/4" wide at the widest part tapering in a pyramid fashion to 1 5/8" at the start of the static limb. The static limb is 3/4" tapering to 1/2" wide and 1/2" thick tapering to 3/8" thick. I plan on backing it with rawhide.

Make sure and round all the edges and corners good (in the profile corners as well around the grip area they look a little angular)
Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder.

Offline sound maker

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Re: red oak mollegabet bow question
« Reply #17 on: April 08, 2012, 04:21:36 am »
Ifrit617-I am making them thinner (they're about 1" or so) I'm just going slow to get them right. Maybe I will just get them going from about 1" or so and lower it too about 1/2 or so.

randman- I am bending it right now (mainly to see how its going) and I'm getting bend there but seems to be more bending to like mid then less to fade.(limbs are 3/4" thick. thinking of taking off maybe 1/16 or so but I'm thinking of lower the thickness near the static limbs since I want it all to bend) I am sanding / rounding and I said earlier in the post I went a little overboard ::) ::) and one side is not equal to the other (got them to be more equal buts still just a little off and its kind-of too bendy there so I stop until riser is on). Now after I get this all set I might forget about the fabric backing (haven't gone to a fabric store so  ::)) and just do paper bags. question?!?! can I just do the backing on the working limbs and join them together at handle and put some wood on it??? the wood because I want the handle a little thicker with the riser on it.
I am not the best but learn from the wise and you'll end up being called he best!
 What one person calls common sense another calls wisdom.

Offline sound maker

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Re: red oak mollegabet bow question
« Reply #18 on: June 12, 2012, 04:39:09 am »
So I got it down to 7/16" thick on both limbs and kind of gotten the levers down but its 1" or so at the tips (most likely going to lower it to maybe 3/4" - 1/2", rather have it big and slow then narrow and broken ::)). I just finished backing it with 2 layers of burlag with lots of glue (would have it with too much glue rather then too little glue O:) ;D O:)) after I got it with a riser glued on and it bend with what I feel comfortable with it being draw to 20" with about 30# or so there. also I was getting worried so I decide I will put the backing on now rather then too late ::). this is going to make it harder to measure the thickness isn't it :o. I'm thinking of just staying here with it with maybe lowering the width of the levers with a tapering to that 1/2" or close to it. Since they're still like long blocks with the corners rounded could I just sand down the corners so its more diamond like? wouldn't that both reduce the weight, size, and shape so its going faster and has less air resistants?  I would like to draw it more but I woulkd rather have it lasting, it does fling those random arrows nicely though ;D >:D ;D.
I am not the best but learn from the wise and you'll end up being called he best!
 What one person calls common sense another calls wisdom.