Making rawhide for bow backings

[jcrich01]

Hi,
I have brain tanned a few hides.  I am now wanting to  take the skin from my first primitive bow kill deer and make rawhide for bow backings.  I must say making rawhide is waaaaaayy easier than braintanning all of the most physically demanding steps are skipped.  My question to the forum is how should I dry it if I want to later cut strips for bow backing.  Should I dry it stretched on a frame or laying out loosely so it can shrink up?  I have never backed a bow with rawhide before so I am not sure what I should do here.  When I apply the strips to a bow for backing do I rehydrate them so that they will pull the bow into a slight reflex when dry?  If so I would think it would be good to let it shrink as it dries so that I can cut pieces without the worry of them shrinking up and being too small after being rehydrated.
Thanks,

[Pat B]

You want the rawhide stretched to dry. Be sure to cut your backing strips from head to tail. There is less stretch lengthwise.
  You do want to rehydrate the rawhide for backing. I soak it in warm water while I prep the bow.
  If you use TB glue for the rawhide put down a thin layer on the bow and let it dry completely. This is a sizing for the bow but also a moisture barrier to keep glue moisture out of the bow. Then add glue to the bow and rawhide and lay it out. You will have to overlap at the handle because the rawhide won't le long enough to do it with one piece.
 Work out the air bubbles and excess glue as you work the rawhide from the handle out each limb. If the rawhide in thin enough you shouldn't have to wrap it. If it doesn't drape well over the limb I use strips of old bed sheets to wrap the limbs. Remove the wrap after an hour to be sure there are no air bubbles or glue pockets and that there are no wrinkles. Trim the excess rawhide now while it is still somewhat plyable. Once the  backing has completely driesgive it a few days) you can dress the edges with a file and/or sanding block.
  Hide glue is another glue option and probably a better choice than TB glues but both work well.

[JW_Halverson]

Pat's words are golden, he hit all the high points.

Many people prefer using hide glue and I give 'em points for their choice.  I've tried it and find it's too slippery for me.  Like Pat recommends, the TiteBond products are my choice, too.  They seem to be more tacky with the hide.  Plus you have the added benefit of being a bit more moisture resistant. 

As you prep the hide, remember the more fat you get off the hide sooner, the less greasy the hide will be and the more it will bond with the glue.

[jcrich01]

Thanks for the great advice guys!  I will stretch it and can't wait to back some bows.  I will probably try both TBIII and hideglue on a couple of different bows.  I plan to make some hide glue with the leg sections of the skin.  I have done this once in the past with some squirrel skin and it worked pretty well for hafting points (until it got wet of course).