Author Topic: Dean Torges Bowmaking Rasp UBR10 (Read 13214 times)

hedgeapple · « **Reply #15 on:** May 22, 2012, 01:16:13 am »

I ordered a Nicholson #49 from 3R after Christmas. I hate it. 10 strokes and it's clogged. I can't get it completely unclogged.

Bert · « **Reply #16 on:** May 22, 2012, 03:05:09 pm »

Ok guys, followed up on your advise (wich was: 70$ isnt that good of a deal .., look for a farrier's rasp or Shinto or some said Nicholson #49)

Just came back from the local hardwarestore (big place, has a wide spectrum of tools, comprimising in de speciality in tools in some areas..) where I found some tools I was hunting for.

No farrier's rasp, but i was suprised to find the Nicholson brand here !
Bought this one (not sure how it compares to the #49 you guys speak of)

Its 200mm (20cm/7.87 inch) long, has a rough (the roughest i found in the store) rasp cut on one side,

and a smoother double cut on the other :

Also found these chainsaw-files (3pc) i once heard are ok for string-notches. Also 20cm long, and a diameter of 4mm (just over 1/8")

Looking for a scraper I bumped into this (alternative?) as I remember Almostpighunter - Mike uses one like these : A paintscraper with a heavy blade in it
The scraper is 38mm wide (1 and 1/2 inch)

and i'm pretty confident I could chase a ring with this !

So any remarks/reservations about these ? I paid around 20$ for the total, so no harm done there.
I'm willing to look further for better tools, but i'll have to wait till the weekend for that

Bert

Badger · « **Reply #17 on:** May 22, 2012, 03:11:10 pm »

Well, I have been getting my shop remodeled like I planned, built a couple of cawls and tool organizers etc. I built only 2 bows since I have been home. So I am behaving pretty good.

MWirwicki · « **Reply #18 on:** May 22, 2012, 03:17:06 pm »

I really like my Nicholson 49 & 50's. However, mine are the "Made in USA" variety. Evidently, Nicholson decided to outsource to Brazil. I purchased a new one recently and experienced the same clogging as Fred and Hedgeapple. My old USA models didn't. So, if you find an old 49/50 that is made in the good 'ol U.S., buy it. If it is from Brazil, I would stay away from it. I'm disappointed because I am wearing out my old ones and need a replacement.

PEARL DRUMS · « **Reply #19 on:** May 22, 2012, 03:23:25 pm »

Your right on Matt. My new Nicholson isnt USA made and it plugs up FAST. I never use it as a result. My Shinto gets the nod.

Fred Arnold · « **Reply #20 on:** May 22, 2012, 03:25:52 pm »

PD, where did you get the Shinto? Do any of the chain stores carry them or do you have to order online?

Fred Arnold · « **Reply #21 on:** May 22, 2012, 03:41:33 pm »

Scott, I've got the Save Edge rasp and it says Made in USA. I haven't used too many as I'm new to this but IMO the Save Edge is a heck of a rasp and doesn't clog. Might buy another one for backup if one can be found.>Fred

PEARL DRUMS · « **Reply #22 on:** May 22, 2012, 03:48:45 pm »

Quote from: Fred Arnold on May 22, 2012, 03:25:52 pm

PD, where did you get the Shinto? Do any of the chain stores carry them or do you have to order online?

Japan Woodworker. They sell direct. Buy two if you have the money to spend. I like the 11" two sided with no forehandle.

Bert · « **Reply #23 on:** May 22, 2012, 03:55:20 pm »

Once again you guys are right. The package reads the following :

Wich lets me believe that the tool is being shipped by a company calles Cooper Hand Tools and they distribute to Europe via the netherlands (Drenthe)

The rasp itself bares a machine stamp stating:

Made in Colombia. Def. not USA anymore.
Chances are good i'll see this one plug up fast then ..

osage outlaw · « **Reply #24 on:** May 22, 2012, 03:58:11 pm »

I like the looks of that Nicholson. Hopefully it doesn't clog on you.

I just picked up a Nicholson half round that is a little less aggresive than the one you just got. I've been looking for a good half round to work on fades and handles. When I bought it, they had several hanging on the peg. I noticed the two in the back were a different colored package. I looked them over and realized the two oddballs were made in USA and the rest were made in Brazil. They were all the same model of rasp, but the USA ones had a different tooth design and just looked like they would work better. I wish American companies would stay in the USA

Bert · « **Reply #25 on:** May 22, 2012, 04:04:56 pm »

Well it does look like it has some bite to it. But I lost some hope in it after what the guys said one here earlier.

Time will tell, i'll let you know after i've worked with it a bit.

So,the little files for cutting the stringnotches are probably capable ?

Bert · « **Reply #26 on:** May 22, 2012, 07:25:21 pm »

That paint scraper does a fairly good job ! Its fine, precise in the amount of wood it takes off.
But, as scraping goes, its a rather slow process ..

I've started digging for that second growth ring, despite the back on this osage stave allready consisting out of 1 full ring (no earlywood)
(It was sealed,oiled and dark, seems only right to dig in one ring deeper)

I'm fighting the urge to grap my draw knife to speed up the process, but no. I chose to make this osage bow slowly, well calculated, carefull and right

DarkSoul · « **Reply #27 on:** May 22, 2012, 07:28:37 pm »

Those chainsaw files are great. I use them myself as well. They leave a very smooth groove, so no sanding is needed afterwards. The 4 mm. type you have is somewhat thick for my liking. I prefer the thinnest version (which is about 3.2 mm I believe), but this will certainly do.
One word of advice though. Those chainsaw files are very fragile. It's very hard steel. Treat them as if they were glass rods! If you drop them on the ground...they may break. ALWAYS use them one handed. If you use them two handed, you apply too much pressure and they will snap in half.

I've seen a shinto rasp for sale here in Holland several times. I'm not sure if Belgium has a Gamma, but that's where I've seen them...

If you narrow that osage stave first, there is less width to remove for chasing that last ring down. Don't narrow it to final width, but just remove the bulk of the width first.

Bevan R. · « **Reply #28 on:** May 22, 2012, 07:33:32 pm »

Bert, check your yellow pages for 'Farm & Ranch' type stores. I latest farriers cost me $20 new.

Bert · « **Reply #29 on:** May 22, 2012, 07:40:09 pm »

Thanks for the tip Bevan, will do.

Hey DarkSoul ! We do have 'Gamma' here, in matter of fact there is one 4km from here.
I'll check there on my lunch-break tomorrow.

I completely follow you on why I could narrow the stave first, but I wanted to have the full width in order to draw my bow-design on.
It's a matter of 'safety', leaving all design-options and possibilities wide open

PS: have you checked my last reply on the Hornbeam-thread a while ago ?
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,32841.msg434705.html#msg434705

Primitive Archer