Author Topic: Wrapping a chrysle  (Read 9841 times)

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Offline Prarie Bowyer

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Wrapping a chrysle
« on: May 16, 2012, 03:38:54 pm »
So I pushed it a little too far too fast.  My tiller was looking good then at a deeper draw not as good.  Lower limb stiff and upper limb doing most of the work. 

I had that patch on the other bow tha seemed to be working.  however I decided to try it again in another suspect place and flat out failed.
So it seems a bit finicky.  I'm not sold on it in short.

 I have a bow I'm working on for someone and I developed two chrysles.  They don't seem to go across the limb and to bow seems to shoot ok.  What would happen if I wrapped them in B-50 soaked in super glue and let it go like that?  Think I'm asking for trouble?  Would it be a good idea to sink a saw kerf into them and fill them with a wedge of something before wrapping?

Offline dmc

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Re: Wrapping a chrysle
« Reply #1 on: May 16, 2012, 03:51:24 pm »
I've done exactly as you thought. wrapped it with B-50, and soaked in super glue. Mine has been good since last June. Not saying if it will ever blow, but it seems to work pretty good.

Good luck.
Dmc
Carpe Diem- Seize the Day!!

Offline Prarie Bowyer

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Re: Wrapping a chrysle
« Reply #2 on: May 16, 2012, 04:02:50 pm »
Wait a moment!

I did this torges patch thing on the other bow.  that chrysle went completely across the belly.  This just goes on the side and in about 1/4" in two places.  I'm thinking about sinking a coping saw kerf into them then fitting a little wedge for it to be glued in with Urac or super glue.  I don't know why that wouldn't hold.  Am I headed for trouble here?

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Wrapping a chrysle
« Reply #3 on: May 16, 2012, 04:17:03 pm »
I suggest finding out why your bows chrysall rather than try to master patching them. Chrysalls are NEVER good, "patched" or not. They only get worse and/or spread out.
Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline Prarie Bowyer

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Re: Wrapping a chrysle
« Reply #4 on: May 16, 2012, 04:19:57 pm »
I've only ever had the Ipe and the Lyptus Chrysle. when I got it to full draw with the regular string length I had some more bending in that area than i thought i would.  It was fine at 27-28" but I HAD to take it to 29".  You know just for saftey sake. 

I can't hand select my Ipe.  I may go back to Hickory.

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Wrapping a chrysle
« Reply #5 on: May 16, 2012, 04:22:38 pm »
It has to be something in your tillering doing it. Ipe is good stuff and doesnt fret easily no matter the backing. Frets form when its over worked in areas, not many other reasons for them to form on good bow woods.
Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline Prarie Bowyer

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Re: Wrapping a chrysle
« Reply #6 on: May 16, 2012, 04:31:12 pm »
Well I sgtart with a loose string then take it back to 29".  Shorten the string and work it back to 29".  By work it back I get under the bow on my knees and exercise it down with 20-30 pulls down to a screw set at my depth then I hook it over and step back to check the bend.  While bending I'm watching the limbs for areas of undue stress.

Then I move my screw down 2" and do it all over again.

I JUST made a tillering gizmo and that helped alot in the early tillering. 

When the string is short enought that I need to flex the bow to get it on (I use disposeable string and tie knots in it as I go) I tie up a real string for it.  then I work the bow down at a low brace height and try to eaven things up.  Then I twist the string to tighten it up and do it all over again.

I try to stop when the string brace height is about right and I can get back to 28"+1". 

I use a 50 grit grinding drum for the initial work and a card scraper when I get to the real string stages.  When it's where I like it I take it in and serve the string, add a nock point and such, oil the wood, shoot it with poly and make a handle wrap for it.


Offline Prarie Bowyer

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Re: Wrapping a chrysle
« Reply #7 on: May 16, 2012, 04:31:58 pm »
Wo what about the patch idea? Think it would work?  I would also reduce the opposite limb some.

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Wrapping a chrysle
« Reply #8 on: May 16, 2012, 04:35:46 pm »
Post a pic at 25" draw. I cant say a patch will work without seeing first why its needed.
Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline Prarie Bowyer

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Re: Wrapping a chrysle
« Reply #9 on: May 16, 2012, 05:36:48 pm »
shot at 24"







some at 28"








Offline Prarie Bowyer

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Re: Wrapping a chrysle
« Reply #10 on: May 16, 2012, 05:39:40 pm »
Thar ye go!

Just noticed I got them out of order.  the ones with a screw driver handle by the tillering stick are at 28"
« Last Edit: May 16, 2012, 05:44:28 pm by Prarie Bowyer »

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Wrapping a chrysle
« Reply #11 on: May 16, 2012, 05:51:11 pm »
I believe you ipe is too thin and your boo is too thick. There isnt much belly wood left to work with boo that thick. I think it will chrysall further. I suggets an all ipe and boo on your next attempt. Perhaps leave the center out to allow the ipe to be thicker. The right limb look spretty flat mid way.
Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline randman

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Re: Wrapping a chrysle
« Reply #12 on: May 16, 2012, 06:01:06 pm »
Yeah what Pearly said. Looks to my eye like you have a flat spot on the right limb just outboard of the chrysal and then a hingey spot just outboard of the flat spot just before the recurve. Whenever I get a chrysal, I look between the chrysal and the tip for problems in my limb thickness taper. Usually means there's a stiffer spot somewhere between the chrysal and the tip.
Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder.

Offline bubby

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Re: Wrapping a chrysle
« Reply #13 on: May 16, 2012, 06:50:46 pm »
i think pearly got it covered, i've never had epe chrysal, it either makes a good shooter or it blows, Bub
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline Prarie Bowyer

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Re: Wrapping a chrysle
« Reply #14 on: May 16, 2012, 07:44:02 pm »
I got  creative with the tillering because of centered string issue.  I'll reduce it some more.  On future ones I'll make the maple core even thinner.  I like it in there.  Boo is only about 1/8" or so.  I sand it down to the action fibers or real close.  I do leave it thicker in the center but that is to help fill out hte grip and that section does not bend.

My last recurve had even thinner Ipe.