Need eyes for tiller help.

[Fred Arnold]

Followed PD's advice but only shot about 20 arrows through it. The bow feels good but is much lighter than I was hoping for and still think the top limb feels a tad stiff compared to the bottom.
 I can't say I'm disappointed as shots from 15 yds hit close to where I was looking and for me that's not bad!!!! Being this is my first bow my expectations may have been a bit higher than was reasonable.  I let it rest for a while and then checked it again braced it, and then shot a pic @24".

[randman]

Looks pretty good to my eyes

[gstoneberg]

Followed PD's advice but only shot about 20 arrows through it. The bow feels good but is much lighter than I was hoping for and still think the top limb feels a tad stiff compared to the bottom.

Fred, if the top limb feels stiff, turn the bow over and try a few arrows with the top limb on the bottom.  I do this with every bow, unless something in the stave forces me to choose limbs early on.  I have reversed the orientation of several bows because they shot better upside down.  It's also the reason I never cut in a shelf.  In fact, right now my trade bow handle is a 1" square because I still haven't chosen a limb orientation.  I keep a floppy rest in the drawer that I tape on with electricians tape when I get the bow to where you are.  I pull it off and put it on the other side every time, I even reuse the tape most times.

...Being this is my first bow my expectations may have been a bit higher than was reasonable....

You think???   Really Fred, you're tillering looks very good on a very tricky stave to tiller.  Choose a limb orientation based on what shoots and feels best, put a finish on it, and shoot the heck out of it while you're building #2.  Good work!

George

[okie64]

The right limb looks just a tad stiffer in the inner third right out of the fades. You could take a few scrapes off there but other than that it looks great. That is great tiller especially for your first bow. As for your bow being undrweight, dont worry about that. Everyone does that in the beginning and I still do it every now and then, i usually end up giving them to some kid that looks like he/she needs a bow.

[Fred Arnold]

I want to thank all of you for the advice you've given me. You have all made me feel more
confident and less apprehensive about finishing this project.
 
Without Pearl Drums little push over the edge I don't know if if I'd of dared shot the bow, that's how insecure and unsure I was feeling at this stage.

George, took your advice and turned it over to shoot. It felt upside down and unbalance with that bottom limb being shorter when shot up top, so I'm going to proceed as originally planned.

And Gus thank you for the PM and the input.

Okie because the bow came in under my desired weight I'm going to take some advice and try toasting the belly to bring it back up. I may give away the 2nd or 3rd but this one has to go on the wall even if only to be brought down when the grand kids visit. 

k-hat, I saw the same thing you did with that limb but decided to do the heat treatment and a little form work before I do any more scraping.

It's going to be hard to leave this bow alone until I get a copy of TBB 4 to study but I've got a new band saw on a truck heading this way and at least a dozen staves and billets waiting in the shop that could use some attention.

Thank you all again and I'll keep you posted on any new developement. Keep sending the advice and encouragement because I and other newbies can use it.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Before you toast that belly consider shortening your top limb 1". That will add 3-4#'s. And/or flip the tips. I attached a pic of a VERY simple jig. You need a 5 gallon bucket to get the half round shape.

[Fred Arnold]

PD, approximately how much gain could the bow get by flipping the tips and what length should the flip be? What I'm asking is with the flip starting at the nock where would you suggest  placing the second clamp?

[PEARL DRUMS]

Just flipping may get you a few pounds. It will tighten the string up at brace and add some zip to your arrow. There is no formula for clamps. Just add one when you need to. Anything will work. Its real simple to do. I would say 8-10" of tip will be ready to bend in 3-4 minutes on high at 6-7" away.

[okie64]

I wouldnt bother toasting the belly on osage. Toasting works better with whitewoods, I've had mixed results toasting osage. Osage is plenty strong enough in compression without toasting. I would do what PD suggested.

[Fred Arnold]

Thanks PD and Okie. The weight came in at 34#'s at full draw so I'm thinking taking 1" off each end which will still give me 62" NTN and hopefully gain another 5#.  At this point I'll be thrilled to get it close to the 40# mark and still have a usable first bow.

[gstoneberg]

I wouldnt bother toasting the belly on osage. Toasting works better with whitewoods, I've had mixed results toasting osage. Osage is plenty strong enough in compression without toasting. I would do what PD suggested.

I've had mixed results too, but the last time I tried it I got 8lbs of draw weight increase though I didn't need it.  I just think it looks cool to give the belly just a hint of a scorch.  If I were a couple lbs under my goal I would for sure try it.  Just be sure to let it rehydrate after heating it and be careful not to induce any twist.

Fred, the tiller looks great.  It's a good first bow right now. Osage should work fine at 62" so I think your plan is good too.

George

[Fred Arnold]

George, I appreciate your's and the others help with this.
I watched the short 8+ minute video clip of Mark St. Louis that someone was kind enough to post here. Because of the heat gun noise running in the background and my questionable hearing, I missed part of what was being relayed.
Were the limbs completely dry before and during the process? And he mentioned applying a resin to rehydrate but I didn't catch the type of resin. It was the procedure just at the end of heating each section.

[Fred Arnold]

Here's a couple shots out back with me aiming down the slope. I have a tendency to throw my elbow high instead of bending from the waist when I do this but you'll get a fairly good look at the angle of the bow.

[George Tsoukalas]

That is an excellent tiller. If you enjoyed making the bow just start another. Enjoy your first. Congratulations! Jawge

[Fred Arnold]

Glad to hear from you Jawge. If you had a counter on how many times I've visited your site, you'd have to start charging me an admission fee.
 I have 3 sets of matched mulberry, 2 Osage, and 2 hackberry billets, plus 2 red elm, 1 black walnut, 4 elm, 1 red elm staves, and a handfull of saplings on racks in the shop waiting for my attention. I'm so addicted that a new 14" Grizzly is on a truck somewhere between Springfield Missouri and it's final destination. It showed up in Omaha Friday morning and was switched to the new carrier. I'm hoping for early this next week, (like Monday).
 This bow was wielded from a stave that I got around 10 years ago. I laid it on a shelf below a basement window and didn't even remove the bark for over 5 years. Other than a few dips and hollows it was near perfect with medium growth rings and very little twist. Now I'm hoping to find another and more just like it or similar.
 I'd say I'm hooked!
 All of the work on this one was done with drawknife, farriers rasp, a Nelson wood file, and scrapers. I'm hoping the bandsaw can speed up my work and save me some wood for other uses.
 I think I may start making my own furniture for the cabin. Since retiring this past November I'm enjoying myself immensely.
 But I need to get indoor plumbing installed before another winter. Moved out here 3 years ago this June and the hole below the outhouse is getting full. I don't want to dig another one and have to move it.
 I'm thouroughly enjoying this and thank all off you for your help, Fred