Your Ideas?

[gudspelr]

I'm getting some HHB from a trade and can't seem to stop thinking about what I might try...  I've only made a laminated style bow and there's just something about one made from a single piece of wood that really makes me excited.  So, here's the question-which style of bow should I try for, flat or D?  I think I'm going to shoot for about a 62 or so inch bow and would love to come in somewhere between 40 and 50 pounds.  I'm a tall guy and my draw is a bit over 30 inches.  I was toying with maybe putting a little reflex into the tips?  I've watched Marc St. Louis' videos on heat treating, would HHB be a good one to treat the belly?  Oh, and I was thinking of cutting in a small arrow shelf, does that pretty much put me in the flat bow category?

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.


Jeremy

[PEARL DRUMS]

70" ntn, 1 3/4" wide flatbow with a 8" handle section. 30" is a looooooong way to pull a 62" bow of any wood, especially a first timer. Make it very long and very wide if you want it to hold together and be servicable, thats what your shooting for I would imagine. Leave the cut in arrow shelfs for later, thats a touchy area. Its the weakest part of your bow. 25# on each limb equals 50# at the handle.

[gudspelr]

Thanks, Pearl Drums.  The problem with that long of a bow is the staves that are coming my way aren't that long....  They're going to be just under 68" long and sounded like I might lose just a bit with some small checks on the ends.  With your advice, I'll probably just go ahead and make them as long as the stave will allow and go from there.  If it's a little less stress on the bow, I can always keep going down to that 40 or so pound mark to get a shooter out of it, plus lighter bows sure are fun to shoot  .  I'll probably also keep that arrow shelf out of it for the time being, too-thanks for making mention of that.  Would be kind of fun to make an anlter wedge or something to stick to the side for a little shelf and maybe do a decent lace stitch on the top of the handle wrap to give the shelf area just a bit more width...

When you mention the 8" handle section, what width do you usually shoot for (side to side, that is)?  Then I'm assuming it tapers up to that 1 3/4" wide limb, then down to about 1/2" tips?  If I do the antler arrow shelf, maybe some antler tip overlays would be good too.  Would you suggest putting any reflex in it to try and keep down some string follow?

Thanks again.

Jeremy

[PEARL DRUMS]

I like a bulbous grip myself. Find your handle center and go out 2" each way, thats your grip. 2" more each way will be your fades. I make the top and bottom of my grip 1" wide and the center 1 1/2" wide, thats the bulbous part. Keep your bow 1 3/4" wide from the fade marks out 14", then taper to 1/2" tips. If you leave the bow wider it will allow you to snip some off the ends to clean the checks up. If you take away length you need to add width to compensate, and vice versa.