Author Topic: My First Tiller  (Read 3934 times)

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Offline ScottN

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  • Posts: 48
Re: My First Tiller
« Reply #15 on: April 02, 2012, 09:49:10 am »
Here are some more pictures. Close up of my handle, and overall back shot of my bow unstrung.

Based on my center point mark, you can tell that my handle slipped a little bit when clamping.

How does my tapering to the ends look? They are not perfect, but I will do better on my next one.



...take me away...from the place I've been...          ...to another life...in another world...

Offline ScottN

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Re: My First Tiller
« Reply #16 on: April 02, 2012, 09:51:36 am »
Looks good Scott, Looks like a little more towards the tips need to be scrapped. How is the poundage?

Not sure on what the poundage is right now, but it feels pretty nice when I pull back on it a little bit. Hope to go out tonight or tomorrow and buy a luggage scale so that I can atleast get a ballpark of what it is it at.
...take me away...from the place I've been...          ...to another life...in another world...

Offline DarkSoul

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    • Orion Bows
Re: My First Tiller
« Reply #17 on: April 03, 2012, 06:08:38 pm »
Looking good there. Tiller is fine with me; I wouldn't change it (unless the bow is too heavy or tiller shifts as the bow gets shot in). You dealt with the handle fades perfectly :)

I do have a few small tips though. Nothing serious, but just a few tricks that make your bow look better.
- Round the handle more. It's currently a square block which is not comfortable when shooting. Since the handle is thick and stiff, you can easily round it a lot so it fits your hand. Don't touch the fades, just the fat handle itself. Especially the belly side needs to be rounded a lot more.
- Also, the corners of the limbs appear somewhat square, but hard to tell from the pic. Square corners are a prime candidate for splinters to lift. Round all corners (back and belly side) to about the radius of a pea. This means the bow will loose a few pounds, though. At the benefits of increased security.
- Do NOT cut string grooves in the BACK of the bow, unless there is a nock overlay. Since you have selfnocks, you have to rely on grooves in the sides of the limbs. Cutting a nock through the back, greatly increases the chance of the tip 'peeling off'.
- How wide are your tips currently? The tips (measured about 1" before the string grooves start) should not be more than  ½" wide. Extra thickness will prevent the tip from bending. Narrow tips keep mass lower, increasing arrow speed and lowering hand shock.

Jorik
"Sonuit contento nervus ab arcu."
Ovid, Metamorphoses VI-286