Author Topic: Tell me what you think (Read 14635 times)

DBernier · « **Reply #15 on:** August 22, 2007, 11:10:45 am »

Possom does have a good point. In the end if as George says an imaginary line thru the curves looks good and the tips are working and end up even at 28 inch's, I don't know what more we could ask. I am "far" from an expert with only a dozen bows to my credit but it all comes out in the wash. Just need a slow rinse.

Dick

Pat B · « **Reply #16 on:** August 22, 2007, 12:11:51 pm »

Pappy, It looks good to me so far but until you hit full draw you won't know. Those whoop-te-doos can be tricky to visualize and tiller but slow and steady will win this race, I'm confident you will come through.

Pat.

Pappy · « **Reply #17 on:** August 22, 2007, 01:07:18 pm »

You know its funny,I don't have much trouble with snakes and curves or holes or even knots
but these woop de do's just wear on me sometimes.Thank for yalls input and I will update as it comes along.

Pappy

possum · « **Reply #18 on:** August 22, 2007, 02:12:52 pm »

Woop de do's kick my butt up one end and down the other.

Like Pappy, knots, snakes, no bother to me. I'm not as efficient as Pappy is is taming them but they don't scare me. Woop de do's are the devil.

Good luck. I'll be watching.

possum

Coo-wah-chobee · « **Reply #19 on:** August 22, 2007, 02:30:22 pm »

Pappy.....IMO its the tiller pic at full draw that really matters. Whoop-de doos are challengin' aint they ? Agree with Jawge on what he says.......bob

Pappy · « **Reply #20 on:** August 23, 2007, 05:56:53 am »

Here are some pictures I took while working on it yesterday of the profile and braced and all the way out to 21 inches.it is 46@21 now .I took the pictures from one side and then the other side view so folks could see the difference.One way it looks pretty good and the other it don't.I agree
full draw is really all that matters but getting it there without getting a hinge when you can't see
it is tough.See what yall think about this.

Pappy

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Pappy · « **Reply #21 on:** August 23, 2007, 05:59:42 am »

Here it is at 17/18/21 frome both sides,I just flipped it on the board.

Pappy

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Pappy · « **Reply #22 on:** August 23, 2007, 06:03:35 am »

Here is the profile when I stopped yesterday.Still standing straight and this morning had 1 1/2 inches of back set in it again.So I guess I ant hurt it much yet.

Pappy

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GregB · « **Reply #23 on:** August 23, 2007, 02:24:41 pm »

Pappy, I agree...I think this is a tougher bow to tiller then your snake bows were(not that they weren't difficult as well). If you look at the "whoop-de-doo" limb while unstrung, it looks like after coming out of the dips the mid and outer limb are slightly deflexed or out-of-level with the other limb. I think this is a result of the natural dips in the limb coming out of the handle 12" or so.

Does it make sense that maintaining that slightly deflexed attitude difference from the other limb during tillering should allow the bow to stay balanced overall??? If you try to counter it by thinning the other limb to "catch up", your "whoop-de-doo" limb will probably actually be somewhat stiffer then what your normal stiffness should be between an upper and lower limb. I'm probably making no sense at all...difficult to put into words!

armymedic.2 · « **Reply #24 on:** August 23, 2007, 02:40:37 pm »

with a snake in a limb like that isn't it more liable to twist with pressure on it? or is limb twist caused more by stringing it improperly (without stringer) than the woods characteristics?

GregB · « **Reply #25 on:** August 23, 2007, 02:48:51 pm »

Quote

with a snake in a limb like that isn't it more liable to twist with pressure on it? or is limb twist caused more by stringing it improperly (without stringer) than the woods characteristics?

As long as the overall limb doesn't rotate to the side it should be okay. Sections of the limb can as long as those sections are countered by the rest of the limb and the tips are squared or in the same plane with each other. I don't think Pappy has a propellar problem, cause he would quickly take care of that with dry heat and rotating it out.

A slight amount of natural "propellar" usually doesn't cause a problem, although I try and remove it using dry heat early on.

Badger · « **Reply #26 on:** August 23, 2007, 04:39:55 pm »

Pappy, I like those stiff outer limbs as long as it isnt taking set, if it looks like a little set is starting I just get some more bending limb working down the limb furter, I try to keep at least the last 1/3 of the limb rigid, even a little more if I can get away with it. Steve

Pappy · « **Reply #27 on:** August 24, 2007, 05:45:43 am »

Greg maybe you can explane what you mean in person this weekend,I can't grasp what you are saying,need to think on it.Steve I have noticed that in some of your bows and that is kind of what I had in mind on this,just with the humps and dips I though I may need to use a little more limb.
I gave it a break yesterday but plan on getting back on it Sat.I will keep yall updated.

Pappy

deerstand · « **Reply #28 on:** August 24, 2007, 09:08:31 am »

im kinda new at this , and this may be a dumb question, why not just make the stiffer limb with bumps the lower limb. i had to deal with pin holes in a hickory bow, so i left wood around the holes for strenght but it made the limbs stiffer, i simply made that my lower limb.

Rich Saffold · « **Reply #29 on:** August 24, 2007, 12:52:34 pm »

When I flex the limb when floor tillering I just make sure a section like this moves with the rest of the limb.

Primitive Archer