Applying Paraffin Wax

[Dictionary]

Quick Question. I got some paraffin wax sitting up here in my room. I had used it on a previous bow. I melted it then tried to rub it in, creating friciton possibly, with an old rag. The rag hardened up with wax so its useless now(shoulda known that)  and the wax kinda just settled on the wood(I can scrape it off with my fingernail). So i have another bow i'm going to be finishing up sometime soon and i plan on first using either some crisco shortening, vegetable oil, bacon grease or fish grease(just to experiment) and then applying the wax over on top. But i don't know how to apply it so it soaks into the wood and doesn't settle on top. I'm supposing i'll have to heat the wax on the wood, which will probably in my case mean, scorch it as i have done so many times in the past 

[Bevan R.]

cheap hairdryer. Not a heat gun, hair dryer.

[bryan irwin]

use the palm of your hand to rub the wax and it will get hot and smooth out thats what i do.

[Dictionary]

Bevan I may give that a shot.

Bryan, you do this after the wax has cooled right? I tried that but it didn't seem to want to soak in. I either applied too much maybe or wasn't rubbing hard enough.....i guess?

[bryan irwin]

i take the wax and rub it on then rub it with my hand and it will heat up and work it in.

[Dictionary]

i take the wax and rub it on then rub it with my hand and it will heat up and work it in.

without first melting it then?

[JW_Halverson]

I've applied beeswax finishes on hot summer days.  Let the bow sit in the sun until it warms.  Rub the wax across it, allow to warm some more in the sun and then use that crusty wax rag to rub it in.  The wax in the rag will prevent the rag from taking wax OFF the bow so it will soak into the wood better.

BUT NOW FOR THE WARNING:  After letting a bow sit for a day in the hot sun, allow it to sit indoors for several days to a week before drawing it.  Failure to do so may cause the bow to fail from being overly dried out.  Don't ask me now I know this.   

[sleek]

A hair dryer will heat the wax up and allow the wood to soak it up nicely. Done it many times.

[Jude]

I don't use parrafin, I use beeswax, but the concept is the same.  If you want to but a little more effort into preparing the finish, keep in mind that waxes dissolve in solvents.  Denatured alcohol works, as well as low VOC paint thinner, or turpentine (though that gets pretty stinky)  If you disolve the wax in a solvent, it will penetrate more deeply.  Alcohol will dry very quickly, while thiner will take longer, but may allow the wax to penetrate more deeply.  I make a finish out of soybean oil and beeswax.  Soybean oil polymerizes much like linseed oil.  I heat the oil on the stovetop until it starts to smoke a bit (keep a fire extinguisher handy and be prepared to slap a cover over the pot, in case it flashes)  I then turn off the heat, and add some beeswax.  I go with a pound per gallon and last time I threw in half that amount of lard, just because I had some.  After it cools, it becomes semisolid at room temperature, kind of like runny Crisco, but it's liquid at body temperature, so it will liquify in your palm as you rub it on the bow.  I usually get the bow warm first, then rub the oil in and set it in with my heatgun, or a hairdryer if you're worried about scorching.  The last half-gallon I made has lasted me close to two years.  Hope this helps.

Julian

[half eye]

You can use the "old-time" way also. When treating or waxing wooden ski's you can use a flat iron. Ya can get 'em cheap at thrift stores, garage sales, anyplace like that....You can use any kind but if ya find one w/o the steam holes grab it.

Put the surface upward that you wish to wax.....hold the iron above the wood with the point toward the wood, and press the hard wax against the the iron so it drips on to the wood....it will set up allmost immeadiately, but dont worry. The dripping keeps you from getting way too much on the ski (or bow).....once ya got the wax, tar etc dripped on just flat iron the wax drops and it will warm the wood and wax  AND at the same time apply pressure to assist in the penetration. I prefer the circular motion so I'm sure to get all the "nooks and crannies".

Since no two guys use a tool the same....I recommend you maybe use the lowest heat setting to start.....if you do the process a lot you will get faster and higher heat will be useable after you have a feel for it.   The iron will not be good for anything else afterwards......so DO NOT use the wife's

This system works for hard waxes, pine tar, and the like.....but any of the heavy viscosity items might respond well, too. Just another thing you may want to consider ....if it makes sense to ya.
rich

[crooketarrow]

  I mainly use wax any wax works alright. I now use a hairdryer for the last 15 years. tHEN AFTER FINISHED

[crooketarrow]

  Then after finished I heat the bow up again by butting it in the hot box for 10 or 15 mins. This really warns up the wood pours and lets the was penatrate deeper. If I'm useing the bow to hunt with that year I reaply before each season. You have new looking bow everytime.

[Dictionary]

thanks for all the information guys, i'll have to give these different methods a shot.