Author Topic: First Bow - Can it be saved? (Read 4738 times)

Walkingbird · « **on:** February 29, 2012, 11:14:44 pm »

Hi all,
Well, this is my first attempt at making a bow and I would appreciate your advice.

I am embarrassed to say how much time I have into this project.
I thought it started out ok, then things looked bad, then I thought it could be saved, and now I am thinking I am wasting my time and it may make a couple of nice atlatls and or maybe a back scratcher.

What bothers me is the string from tip to tip.

The picture is from my cell phone and I hope the picture shows the string, but you should be able to see what I mean even if the string does not show.

Presently it is at 69" T to T, limbs are 1/2" thick, tips are 1/2 square, brace is rough and I have a lot of scraping to do to get it down to tillering weight.

Is there anything that can be done to save this bow or should I just scrap it now?

Walkingbird

blackpanem · « **Reply #1 on:** February 29, 2012, 11:20:52 pm »

i dont know if i see it right or not but you could try steaming one of the limbs then bending it in a vice

jermcramp1 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 29, 2012, 11:26:05 pm »

Dont give up yet, I probably had 20 hrs or more into my first bow.

first advice is shoot for 30-40#, make it easy on yourself and build your confidence...

Someone on here did a how to on this issue..I think prop twist or something... took a pine slat and sanded one side of the belly so it twisted really bad...I'll look when I have time..

O more pics always help...

JW_Halverson · « **Reply #3 on:** February 29, 2012, 11:31:21 pm »

Hard to tell from the pic, it looks kinda nice from where I sit. Not sure if it is the angle that the photo was taken from or if this is the problem you are referring to, but is the string off to one side of the handle? If that's the case, no biggie. Read up in here about making heat corrections and bend your handle a little to bring it back in line.

I still spend up to 40 hours on a single bow*. I don't have many leave my shop and blow up either. I won't say anything about the pile of tomato stakes in the corner if you don't.

*part of that is spent with 400 grit sandpaper, a soft lead pencil, a strong lightsource, and a cuppa coffee. Toolmarks are my enemy.

Walkingbird · « **Reply #4 on:** February 29, 2012, 11:34:12 pm »

Thank you.

Was my centerline wrong or has the bow twisted?

Should I steam both ends and twist in oposite directions?

Walkingbird · « **Reply #5 on:** February 29, 2012, 11:37:26 pm »

Many Thanks JW,
I would hate to scrap this one but I think it is gonna need some serious twisting to straighten out.
I'll read up on heat and steam.

JW_Halverson · « **Reply #6 on:** February 29, 2012, 11:41:54 pm »

If your string stretches too far and you have enough recurve to the stave, the string will slide down the side of one handle or the other. Go down to one end of the bow and sight along the string. Is the string straight?

If you have natural recurve to the stave, flip it over in the vice and run a chalkline type string from the middle of one tip to the other.

If you have to steam and bend, it's best (and often easiest) to do it in the handle. A small correction in the handle yeilds great correction out on the tips. Kinda like when you used to stand on the center of a teeter-totter. Your feet make small movements, but the seats way out on the end of the boards make great movements.

Pat B · « **Reply #7 on:** March 01, 2012, 01:11:10 am »

Have you gotten the bow to low brace yet? If not you can't tell if the string lines up or not. So get her tillered out and brace her at about 3" then see how the string tracks. There are a few different things you can do to get the string to line up if necessary. Keep your handle area thick and your tips wide for some possible adjustment later.

petew · « **Reply #8 on:** March 01, 2012, 04:53:17 am »

I think you are concerned about the center tracking of the string. I check early on with my bows by pulling a string on the back side so it can get past the raised handle area. After bracing it you can see on the belly side. Heat or steam is your friend. Just add clamps and blocking. It will surprise you how much wood bends with the heat. Just take your time and get it hot all the way thru, not just on the surface..You get more movement in the middle/handle area than trying to work the ends. Sometimes you need to do some straightening in the handle, mid limb and tips. A $10 heat gun does wonders.
Pete
PS: That looks like Osage, It bends great, or you can give up and send it to Alberta.

sleek · « **Reply #9 on:** March 01, 2012, 05:29:16 am »

Proper string tracking is largely a mind over mater thing. If you dont mind, it dont mater. I have built and shot bows where the string was 2 inches to the left of the handle, completely off it. Bow shot fine. What happens is as you draw the bow, it will turn and align itself in your hand to sit as it watnts to. Loosen your grip and that bow will tell you how it wants to be held. Then cave your handle to suite that. You handle may actually face 30 degrees off the belly of the limbs, but if the bow dont mind, it dont mater. The bow will shoot fine, you just make sure you get an even tiller. Thats whats important here.

Pappy · « **Reply #10 on:** March 01, 2012, 07:46:56 am »

Like Pat said you need to get it floor tillered and then to low brace to see what you have, Lot of options on lining it up, with dry heat or steam you can make it do almost anything you want. :)What kind of wood is it ?
Pappy

Parnell · « **Reply #11 on:** March 01, 2012, 10:26:03 am »

Alls been said, keep going with it!

Walkingbird · « **Reply #12 on:** March 02, 2012, 12:52:20 am »

Many Thanks for all of you suggestions!
I guess there is still and chance for this bow.

This is my first attempt and it is what I believe to be a really nice piece of Osage.
I bought two staves from osage outlaw figuring I would probablt scrap the first one.
I and have been working on the longest figuring it might have to get shorter and shorter but I may be able to come up with a bow.

I've been reading your posts and working a bit and then reading some more and following along but really do not know what the heck I am doing.
I am trying to go slow enough that I don't ruin the bow by making one big mistake.

So far I am happy with the back and I think I have it down to one ring with no serious knot issues.
The dimensions seem ok at this point in that I have pretty much wood left to work with.

I hesitate to go any further until I read up on heat and steam, tillering, low brace etc and make some type of jig for tillering.

Thanks again for your advice!
Walkingbird

Pappy · « **Reply #13 on:** March 02, 2012, 07:25:47 am »

Cool,floor tiller would be the next step,then you can steam or heat to line everything up.Remember age/seasoned or green/dry or wet wood has a lot to do with weather you steam first or dry heat. :)Keep us updated.

Pappy

RDK · « **Reply #14 on:** March 02, 2012, 02:53:50 pm »

I certainly agree with everyone. Here is another option--if I can get the pic from photobucket inthis post...

My 2nd and 4th bows failed---the 2nd bow was Osage with a twisted limb I could not straighten--arrrrrgh--I saved the "bow"
My 4th both was hickory--4th bow--first explosive failure------I saved the "bow"

I decided years later to try to do my first fish-tail splice---I salvaged the good limbs from each did a fish-tail--I even made a peg from osage to really be certain everything stayed together. The resulting bow is 54" ntn, 55# @ 23". sinew backed and covered with snakeskin. I sinew backed it and pegged the splice because I did not want another failure---It is one of those point-draw -shoot- bows and great at short distances. Any just an option to garden stakes. Here is my first attempt to post a pic..

Primitive Archer