Selecting an ERC to cut...

[Onebowonder]

I have recently had my suspicions confirmed that the ERC (Eastern Red Cedar) that is being talked about here, (...and built into some gorgeous bows!) is the same tree as the hated field cedars that grow in weed-like abundance here in Southwest Missouri.  I've cut tons of these over the years and just burned them in the brush piles not having any idea that they held significant potential as bow wood!

So, now I'm wanting to go out and cut a few to put up for staves, but I need some pointers on what to look for.  I'm sure the first thing is to find one that's not completely full of branches shooting off of it in all directions, which most are, as I'm sure these mean there would be tons of knots in the stave.  So, I'm guessing I need a tree that has grown up mostly in the shadow of others and had to get tall quickly to get to the sun light. 

  1] What diameter trunk do I need to look for?
  2] How do you prep them for drying? 
  3] Any other bits of experience with harvesting this wood that I should know about?  (For example, I already know that snakes seem to like hanging out around these trees.  )

I'd appreciate the benefit of your experiences...

-OneBow

[blackhawk]

Look for a cluster of trees all close to one another,and where the trunks are growing hard agaisnt one another. This usually equates to barely no branches(knots)and a flat crown,and pretty clean wood. Or any trunk that isn't branch/knot littered as they like to grow.

Try to find trunks bigger than 6" dia. The thickness of the sapwood can vary from tree to tree,and I've seen it an inch thick to over two inches thick. So to ensure you get heartwood look for the biggest diameter you can find. A 4-5"er will work if it has thin enough sapwood,but how will you know unless you drill a tenon plug,or after you cut the tree.

I just seal the ends of mine and kerf cut to split. And then let em sit n season. Its a fast drying wood. It just depends on how much material you remove from the staves. And I leave the bark on

[Onebowonder]

Thanx Blackhawk.  I'll demonstrate what a novice I am here, ...kerf cut?  I'm guessing that's like an inch deep slice with the chain saw or do you use something thinner?

And then, ...do you split the log before letting it dry or do you put it up whole with the kerfs cut into the ends?  It may sound like a dumb question, but I want to be certain...

I'm thinking to use cheap Elmers glue to seal the ends, will that suffice?

[blackhawk]

I use a skillsaw to rip a cut along the grain,then pop it out with wedges carefully cus its soft wood and easily dinged. Be very careful doing this with a skillsaw,its dangerous. Hold on for dear life with both hands and keep your legs(both) way off to the side away from a possible kickback by the saw. I don't like offering this advice to someone if they're not competent with these kinds of tools. So did I mention please be careful if you do.

And there's a lot of ways to skin a cat. Im sure some folks do it differently than me.

Elmers glue will be fine.

[Onebowonder]

Makes sense now!  Thanx for the clarification...

[bcbull]

i do em about the same but after about 3 mo dryin time i emove the bark seal the back and end s again with poly id rather use polyuthrene or shellac any day than elmers  but i do tend to stick my neck out when i get some good one s and use anchor seal plus with wax in it brock

[sweeney3]

Do not feel bad about piling and burning those you cut from the pasture.  You probably didn't lose a single bow stave at all.  ERC makes excellent bows, and it IS the same stuff you fight in your pasture.  However, you need to look for ERCs that are growing either in a dense thicket or very tight up against another structure, be it a tree or wall or post or some such thing.  This will prevent the limbs growing in that spot and will (hopefully) provide you a decently clear length to work with.

For diamater, it's best if they are at least 4-6 inches.  ERC is relativly tension weak and will likely need a backing anyway, but the flatter you can get the back, the better.  Trapping the belly a little bit will help some too.  And it's OK if there is some natural deflex or string follow.  It probably won't take much set and shoots very hard for its draw weight because it is so light in physical weight.

I like to start working on it before it's compleatly dry.  Seems to help it bend without blowing up as hard.  The stuff really lets you know when it doesn't like what you are doing.

In other words, pretty much what Blackhawk said.  I haven't done the kerf cutting, but I'm sure that would help.  I just quarted them and sealed the ends. 

I have actually chased a ring on ERC.  This is a nightmare because they tend to be very thing, but it can be done.  I had a stave that I wanted to remove a lot of sapwood since I can get plain white wood any old place, and I wanted to have a lot of the pretty red heartwood left when I hit the weight I wanted.  So I took off about half the sapwood.  It worked really well, but again... It's a bear chasing that ring. 

[Lee Slikkers]

Tell ya what...I have a pretty nice looking ERC tree I need to harvest out of my woodlot before I sell and move so if the weather holds I'll snap some pics of it before cutting, after cutting and the sealing process.  Stay tuned~

[Onebowonder]

<snip> ...weather holds I'll snap some pics of it before cutting, after cutting and the sealing process.  Stay tuned~

That would be most appreciated!

[blackhawk]

I got one marked to cut as well before ole man winter releases its grip(ha..what winter) I like cutting them in the winter when there's less sap in the tree,cus it'll ooze out of the ends. Maybe ill do some harvest pics too for ya. I need to do it soon