Author Topic: Maple 45#@28in  (Read 3469 times)

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Offline Dictionary

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Maple 45#@28in
« on: February 21, 2012, 06:55:28 pm »





Hope these pictures show up. Showed about 47 or 46# @ a 28 in draw.70 inches long. Side nocks. About 1 1/8 inches wide at handle. I roughed it out about 2 and a half weeks ago down to floor tiller dimensions and let it dry under my bed. It probably wasn't entirely dry but i've been eager to try a d-bow for a while of this design. Made from a very small diameter sapling by the way. Tiller isn't perfect but it bends evenly throughout its length(altough the handle could bend more i think...maybe not).  Something like 2.5 inches of set. Probably due to the wood not being seasoned to its entirety. Tips don't bend. No finish on it and no handle. It has collected a bit of dirt on it already after having been shot a dozen or so times.

« Last Edit: February 21, 2012, 07:09:00 pm by Dictionary »
"I started developing an eye for those smooth curves as a young man.  Now that my hair is greying and my middle spreading I make bows instead."

-JW_Halverson

Offline GaryR

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Re: Maple 45#@28in
« Reply #1 on: February 21, 2012, 06:59:28 pm »
Simple and efficient, I like it.

Offline Pat B

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Re: Maple 45#@28in
« Reply #2 on: February 21, 2012, 07:03:31 pm »
Your full draw pic shows a beautiful circular bend. Well done.   
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Dictionary

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Re: Maple 45#@28in
« Reply #3 on: February 21, 2012, 07:06:54 pm »
Been having trouble with photobucket so i hope these work..

I used 12 strands of b50 for the string. I haven't served the string yet at the nocking point. I used a libricant to lube the string up i got at a local archery shop.Flemish loop on one end and timber hitch on other. I find this easiest. I reverse twist a length long enough for the loop, fold it over then reverse twist until the ends run out(You get what i mean). Then i go down to the other side and reverse twist a length long enough to make the timber hitch for the bottom nock. Then i simply the loop end of the string to add twist to the entire length. Takes about 10 minutes. I hope this is the correct way.

Also i wanted to address the tips. I've been told to let the last 6 inches not bend, i dont know why but i do it anyways. I don't know a good thickness to go by so i keep them quite thick(maybe too thick) here is an awful picture taken with a blackberry phone. They are slightly narrowed.






A druid inspired bow i meant to mention.
« Last Edit: February 21, 2012, 07:23:09 pm by Dictionary »
"I started developing an eye for those smooth curves as a young man.  Now that my hair is greying and my middle spreading I make bows instead."

-JW_Halverson

Offline Pat B

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Re: Maple 45#@28in
« Reply #4 on: February 21, 2012, 07:15:26 pm »
Make the tips about 1/2" to 5/8" thick and narrow then to 1/2" to 3/8" wide.   Rigid tips act like levers to help propel the arrow but excess physical weight can rob cast and add hand shock so you have to find a happy medium.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline half eye

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Re: Maple 45#@28in
« Reply #5 on: February 21, 2012, 07:17:30 pm »
Nice bend, young man 8)

Offline bubby

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Re: Maple 45#@28in
« Reply #6 on: February 21, 2012, 07:29:59 pm »
that's cool, do the tip's like Pat said, and i think i'd seal it up like that, nice and rustic, make a great reinactment bow, Bub
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline Slackbunny

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Re: Maple 45#@28in
« Reply #7 on: February 21, 2012, 07:30:51 pm »
That's a cool looking bow.

Offline Keenan

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Re: Maple 45#@28in
« Reply #8 on: February 21, 2012, 07:34:57 pm »
Very nice tiller young man. It's good to see you back at it. ;)

Offline Dictionary

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Re: Maple 45#@28in
« Reply #9 on: February 21, 2012, 07:37:05 pm »
Thank you Pat for that. I believe i should narrow and take some wood off of the tips.

And thank you all for your comments. It is a very crude bow but i did rather enjoy how simple it was to make. With a hatchet, knife, and a rasp, took only about an hour or so from roughed stave to shooting. Right from floor tiller it was tillering out very nicely on long string, then straight to the tree it was bending quite well.  I have heard some say the D-bow is quite easy and also heard some say it is more difficult to tiller. I find it to be a very simple, functional design.

And regards to a finish. I have an ace hardware up the street. What is a good, inexpensive finish? Inexpensive being the key word  ::) Money is quite tight.
"I started developing an eye for those smooth curves as a young man.  Now that my hair is greying and my middle spreading I make bows instead."

-JW_Halverson

Offline Bevan R.

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Re: Maple 45#@28in
« Reply #10 on: February 21, 2012, 08:01:42 pm »
Paraffin wax is pretty inexpensive and water proof. I have used it before.
Bowmakers are a little bent, but knappers are just plain flaky.

Offline ErictheViking

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Re: Maple 45#@28in
« Reply #11 on: February 21, 2012, 08:39:00 pm »
very nice bend!
"He that but looketh on a plate of ham and eggs to lust after it hath already committed breakfast with it in his heart"  C.S. Lewis

Offline Keenan

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Re: Maple 45#@28in
« Reply #12 on: February 21, 2012, 08:48:57 pm »
Congratulations, Looks like you are off to a very good start.

youngbowyer

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Re: Maple 45#@28in
« Reply #13 on: February 21, 2012, 08:59:01 pm »
Thank you Pat for that. I believe i should narrow and take some wood off of the tips.

And thank you all for your comments. It is a very crude bow but i did rather enjoy how simple it was to make. With a hatchet, knife, and a rasp, took only about an hour or so from roughed stave to shooting. Right from floor tiller it was tillering out very nicely on long string, then straight to the tree it was bending quite well.  I have heard some say the D-bow is quite easy and also heard some say it is more difficult to tiller. I find it to be a very simple, functional design.

And regards to a finish. I have an ace hardware up the street. What is a good, inexpensive finish? Inexpensive being the key word  ::) Money is quite tight.
A can of miniwax is quite cheap if i recall correctly. Heck, you could even finish it with some vegetable oil, I've done that before!

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Maple 45#@28in
« Reply #14 on: February 21, 2012, 09:52:25 pm »
I like that full draw shot, good bends equal good bow in my book. Anybody can make a piece of wood look like a bow, but not everybody can make a piece of wood shoot like a bow!
Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.